Medieval Cairo

Cairo is home to more than 1/5 of Egyptโ€™s population, so getting around takes patience!  One of our destiantions was the ๐—ฆ๐˜‚๐—น๐˜๐—ฎ๐—ป ๐—›๐—ฎ๐˜€๐˜€๐—ฎ๐—ป ๐— ๐—ผ๐˜€๐—พ๐˜‚๐—ฒ.  The mosque looms largeโ€ฆ.a grand structure widely held to be one of the best examples of early ๐— ๐—ฎ๐—บ๐—ฒ๐—น๐˜‚๐—ธ๐—ฒ architecture in Cairo. 

Mamelukes were slave soldiers that later won political control over several Muslim states. They used that power to establish a dynasty that ruled Egypt and Syria from 1250-1517.  Constructed between 1356-1363 by Sultan Hassan, the site features a courtyard surrounded by four iwans (vaulted halls) and soaring minarets.

One feels quite small when approaching its 125 ft. high monumental entranceโ€”the tallest of any historic mosque in Egypt.

Architecturally, the mosque is revolutionary. Its scale, symmetry, and the use of monumental stonework were unprecedented at the time. Its 223-foot-high minaret remains one of Cairoโ€™s tallest, and the entire complex exudes both solemnity and splendor. It’s no wonder that later rulers and architectsโ€”Ottoman and otherwiseโ€”looked to Sultan Hassanโ€™s mosque for inspiration.


Directly facing this mosque was the massive ๐—”๐—น-๐—ฅ๐—ถ๐—ณ๐—ฎโ€™๐—ถ, one of Cairoโ€™s largest mosques (1869-1912).  It houses the tombs of many members of the Egyptian Royal Family, including the last monarch, King Farouk.  (His sister was briefly married to the Sha of Iran, reigning as queen of Iran from 1941 to 1948.)

It was a fortunate day for us. Our guide ran into the famous ๐—ฆ๐—ต๐—ฎ๐—ธ๐—ฒ ๐—”๐—บ๐—ฒ๐—ฟ, a high-level Muslim holy man.  He practices Sufism, a mystic body of religious practice within Islam that focuses on Islamic spirituality, ritualistic, asceticismโ€ฆ.the mystical expression of the Islamic faith.  He talked with us and opened doors to tombs we would otherwise not have seen!  Because of former Egyptian President Anwar Sadat, the tomb of the Shah of Iran was here for us to see.


We ended our morning by walking the fabled ๐—ž๐—ต๐—ฎ๐—ป ๐—ฒ๐—น-๐—ž๐—ต๐—ฎ๐—น๐—ถ๐—น๐—ถ ๐—•๐—ฎ๐˜‡๐—ฎ๐—ฎ๐—ฟ. It’s a maze of narrow streets teeming with glittering gold, colorful silks, and exotic spices. After eating Egyptian cuisine at a local restaurant, we had an opportunity to wander the bazaar a bit more. Colorful market stalls sold quite a variety; roasted nuts, copper tea sets and vibrant galabeya, (the traditional Egyptian-style long gown.)

These opportunities are always fun, but between watching for pickpockets and trafficโ€ฆ.it was hard to think of shopping! There was even a car/wheelbarrow accident along the narrow street, which must be an everyday occurrence. 

The man in the suit was one of our ever-present gun-toting security guards who were with us wherever we went!  The young people talking to us…..examples of the amazing friendliness and welcoming attitude we experienced all over.


Tonight we joined a charming family for our โ€œhome-hostedโ€ dinner.  They were a Christian family (10% of the population) with three small children.  Our small group had a great meal: Mahshi, which is eggplant stuffed with rice. For dessert, we had pastries like kenaf, a crispy cake filled with cheese, and cheese-filled dumplings. We had plenty of time for conversation.  They are an educated family, with the mom receiving her Ph.D. just yesterday!  Dad works in finance, and they can also afford another vacation home a couple of hours away from Cairo.  

The apartment was in the hectic and crowded Coptic section of Cairo, which did not look pleasant. Once we entered their home, however, things were neat, orderly, and clean.  We always appreciate these opportunities for personal interactions.