Bhutan is a hilly and mountainous country due to its location in the foothills and lower mountains of the Himalayas. Roads are winding with sharp hairpin bends (think up and down mountains, along valleys, and through high mountain passes). Today, we learned the reality of that!! We drove from Thimphu to Punakha….a distance of 40 miles and a time of 3.5 hours! Most of our group did okay with the switchbacks and elevation climb to over 10,000 ft….but one succumbed to needing the barf bag!

We took a 30-minute break at the scenic 10,170 ft Dochula Pass, one of Bhutan’s most famous views. Dochula Pass is known for its unique cluster of 108 chortens (stupas). These chortens (civil name; stupa is the religious name) were built to honor the Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in a conflict with Indian insurgents in 2003. The chortens are beautifully adorned and provide a tranquil and spiritual atmosphere despite the number of tourists!

The panoramic view of the Himalayan Mountains is breathtaking here, though the snow-capped peaks are shrouded in clouds. These craggy mountaintops are on the border of Tibet.

On the way to the pass, we passed several groups of these guys…..macaque monkeys! They are timid, so capturing a good image of many of them was hard.

Learning and Discovery

One of the things we love about our travel company, OAT, is that it helps immerse us in the local culture, go off the beaten path, and step out of our comfort zones. That allows our guides to serendipitously see opportunities that will extend our learning. That was the case today when Tensin met a woman who lived close to the restaurant where we ate. What we found seemed quite astonishing but not atypical for poor Bhutanese farm families.

The house we entered, through a ladder in the back, was spartan. No furniture, bed mattresses leaning against a wall, no decor except for the prayer room, and minimal kitchen supplies. When I asked later where their clothes were kept, Tensin pointed out that they had few clothes to store.

It was very nice of these ladies to show us a typical farmhouse….this is the time of the year when they are swamped harvesting the rice. These ladies also tended a few animals and raised crops such as the peppers, shown above, drying in the sun.

Yet, they smiled and showed excitement when we took pictures of them and showed the results. It was really heart-wrenching…and our entire group gave money to our guide to offer. The ladies were overwhelmed and wanted to give us something to say thank you. Their smiles were the gifts we will never forget. This is another reminder of how we, as Americans, are unbelievably blessed.

Punakha Dzong (Palace of Great Happiness)

Punakha Dzong, is one of the most majestic and historically significant fortresses in Bhutan. Located at the Pho Chhu (Father River) confluence with the Mo Chhu (Mother River) in the Punakha Valley, this dzong is central to Bhutanese culture and history. It was constructed in 1637-38 by the founder of Bhutan. It served as the capital and the seat of the government until Thimphu assumed this role in the 1950s.

It is renowned for its stunning architecture, blending Bhutanese and Tibetan styles. It features whitewashed walls, golden spires, and intricate woodwork. The traditional construction methods, without using nails, showcase the craftsmanship of Bhutanese artisans.

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Prayer Flags…all over this country!

Prayer flags are everywhere….they are integral to Bhutanese culture and spirituality. Typically, the rectangular pieces of cloth are of five different colors. Each color represents one of the five elements: blue for sky, white for air, red for fire, green for water, and yellow for earth. 

They are adorned with sacred symbols, mantras, and prayers and are believed to carry blessings and good wishes when the wind blows through them. Over time, the flags fade and weather, symbolizing the impermanence of life. When the flags deteriorate, new ones are hung to continue spreading blessings. This tradition is essential to Bhutanese culture and its deep connection to Buddhism….although religion and government are separate.

Chhimi Lhakhanf Monastery

Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the Fertility Temple, is a Buddhist monastery dedicated to Drukpa Kunley, a Tibetan Buddhist saint known for his unorthodox ways of teaching Buddhism and eccentric lifestyle. To get to the monastery, we hiked through a beautiful rural landscape of rice fields, over a river, and into a traditional Bhutanese village.

Chimi Lhakhang was founded in 1499 by Kunley, also known as the “Divine Madman.” Drukpa Kunley was a charismatic and unconventional figure who used humor and outrageous behavior to spread Buddhist teachings.

Chimi Lhakhang is renowned for its phallic symbols inside and outside the temple. Phallic imagery is believed to ward off evil spirits and bring fertility. Childless couples often visit Chimi Lhakhang for fertility blessings; they receive a blessing from the temple’s lama (monk), who taps them on the head with a wooden phallus!

Phallic Symbols

These symbols seem pretty strange and unconventional to our Western eyes!! But in Bhutan, they are an integral part of the cultural and religious fabric, part of Bhutanese folklore and traditions, and believed to ward off evil spirits and protect against harm.

We could find them everywhere! It’s common to see houses adorned with phallic paintings or sculptures to ensure the well-being and protection of the residents.

Even Pete got into the act!! Okay, enough of that, let’s move on!!

A Visit to the Weekend Market

Going to the markets is always an adventure….seeing unfamiliar fruits and vegetables and observing the shoppers and sellers. Bhutanese go to the markets often since there is little fresh food storage in their homes. Food is fresh, unprocessed, and inviting. While we may not always appreciate the cooking methods, there is no doubt about the healthy approach to eating as compared to the U.S.

We spent a bit of time talking with these “orange people!” They can be found around the country doing various types of jobs. During the pandemic, when jobs were scarce, the government started offering training programs to help the country and provide income and skill-building to citizens. The result is somewhat like our CCC of the depression years….everyone benefits.

Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery

Perched high on a hilltop in Punakha Valley, the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery was built in 2010 as a Buddhist college for nuns. It is a beautiful, quiet, and serene place.

Nunneries in Bhutan allow females to engage in religious studies, meditation, and spiritual practice. We met for 30 minutes with one of the nuns, asking her questions about her daily life, decisions to become a nun, etc.

Stray Dogs, Everywhere!!

There are LOTS of stray dogs who sleep all day and bark ALL night….there were even earbuds on some hotel nightstands to help with the noise! They are considered part of the community, and the government implements a humane approach to managing the dog population, focusing on sterilization and vaccination programs rather than culling. It’s a unique coexistence between humans and dogs….just one we are not used to.