Surabaya (Island of Java)
A Warm Welcome from Bamboo Harmony
As we stepped off the ship in Surabaya, we were greeted by a sight—and sound—that was both unexpected and unforgettable. A group of local women stood together, each holding what looked like delicate frames of bamboo. With a gentle shake, they produced soft, resonant tones that blended into a graceful, calming melody.
These beautiful instruments are called angklung. Made entirely from bamboo, each angklung produces just one note or chord, so players must work in perfect harmony—literally and figuratively—to create a song. When shaken side to side, the tubes resonate, creating warm, layered notes that blend beautifully when played together.
It’s mesmerizing to watch: dozens of hands moving in practiced unison, filling the air with music that feels both earthy and ethereal. This instrument received UNESCO recognition (the angklung was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010). It’s recognized by as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
Surabaya, the second-largest city in Indonesia, is a bustling metropolis located on the northeastern coast of Java. Known as the “City of Heroes,” Surabaya holds a significant place in Indonesian history, particularly for its pivotal role in the Indonesian National Revolution. It is the place where Indonesia’s independence struggle began.
Today, we were fortunate to have Rina, an exceptionally knowledgeable private guide, who shared her city’s history and showed the two of us its highlights.
Rina shared the story of the Indonesian flag: In September of 1945, just weeks after Indonesia declared its independence, tensions were running high between Indonesians and the returning Dutch who sought to reestablish colonial control after World War II. Dutch citizens hoisted the Dutch tricolor flag—red, white, and blue—on top of the building, signaling their claim to power.
A group of Indonesian youth stormed the hotel, climbed to the top of the building and tore off the blue stripe from the Dutch flag—leaving only the red and white—which matched the newly declared Indonesian flag. It was not just about removing the color blue; it was a declaration that Indonesia would no longer be ruled by colonial powers.
The Battle of Surabaya in 1945 was a defining moment in Indonesian history because it showcased the city’s continued and unwavering determination against colonial forces.
The Battle of Surabaya
In November, 1945, the return of Allied forces—primarily British troops tasked with disarming Japanese soldiers and facilitating the return of Dutch colonial administration—was seen by Indonesians as a direct threat to their newfound freedom.
Tense negotiations erupted into full-scale urban warfare after the death of a British commander. In response, the British launched a massive military offensive demanding Indonesian fighters surrender.Instead, thousands of young Indonesians—many with little more than outdated rifles, bamboo spears, and fierce determination—chose to stand their ground. For over three weeks, Surabaya became a battleground, with entire neighborhoods engulfed in fighting and flames. The city was heavily bombarded, and thousands of lives were lost—most of them Indonesian freedom fighters and civilians.
Though militarily outmatched, the Indonesian resistance at Surabaya became a symbol of national pride and resilience. The battle showed the world how deeply the Indonesian people were willing to fight for independence—strengthening unity across the archipelago and inspiring further resistance against colonial reoccupation.
This historical significance is commemorated through numerous monuments and we visited one, the Heroes Monument.
The adjacent Museum 10 November displays photographs, sculptures, artifacts, and personal stories that bring the struggle to life.
There were many school groups visiting the memorial: some very excited younger children as well as members of the military academy.
Today, Surabaya is a thriving urban center, characterized by its impressive skyline, bustling shopping malls, and diverse entertainment options. The city’s economic growth has led to the development of modern infrastructure, including well-connected transportation networks and state-of-the-art facilities. Despite its urban development, Surabaya retains a sense of its historical charm, with traditional markets and neighborhoods coexisting alongside contemporary structures.
Other key places we paused to explore in this city (Indonesia’s second largest):
Monkasel (Submarine Monument)
This Monkasel (Submarine Monument) is built around a Whiskey-class submarine built in the Soviet Union in the 1950s and later operated by the Indonesian Navy. It played an active role during the years when Indonesia was asserting itself as an independent maritime nation. We could step inside the vessel and quite literally walk through history!
It is amazing to feel how narrow and cramped the passages are. The walls are lined with dials, levers, and gauges—a mechanical language of a bygone era.
We saw the periscope room, torpedo launchers, crew bunks barely large enough for a short nap, and the tiny galley where sailors prepared meals during long patrols.
Honestly, just imagining what it must have been like to live alongside 50+ men in such tight quarters—with barely any personal space—made me feel more than a little claustrophobic!
Market Stop, of Course!
Street Scenes
Sanggar Agung Temple
The Sanggar Agung Temple is a place of serenity, spirituality, and stunning architecture. This unique temple blends Chinese, Balinese, and Javanese design influences and sits dramatically along the coast, where the sea breeze and the sound of lapping waves add to the ambiance.
What makes Sanggar Agung truly unforgettable is its enormous statue of Guan Yin, the Chinese goddess of compassion. She stands over 20 meters tall, gracefully poised with two guardian dragons curling around her feet.
The statue looks out to the sea, as if offering protection and blessings to those who visit and those who pass by on the water.
The temple is not only a religious site for Tridharma followers (a mix of Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism), but also a welcoming space for visitors from all backgrounds. Locals come here to pray, meditate, and light incense, while travelers like us are drawn by its beauty and quiet atmosphere.
Surabaya Chinatown – Kya Kya Kembang Jepun
Kya-Kya Kembang Jepun is the heart of Chinatown and one of the city’s oldest and most colorful cultural hubs. Once a bustling trading center during the Dutch colonial era, this area has been revitalized into a vibrant street destination that beautifully showcases Surabaya’s Chinese heritage through food, architecture, and traditions.
It is nicknamed “Kya-Kya,” a term loosely meaning to promenade or stroll in the Chinese dialect. Unfortunately, that is the very thing time did not permit for us today. Wandering among the beautifully restored shophouses, some dating back more than a century, with their signature wooden shutters and tiled facades, would have been fun (even for non-shoppers like us!)
Surabaya, a city often overlooked by tourists, surprised us. It was fascinating to witness how colonial Dutch architecture, Chinese temples, Arab Quarter alleyways, and bold Indonesian spirit coexist in one dynamic urban landscape.
For travelers like us, it offers more than historical sites—it was also a chance to stand where history itself turned.
Taiwan to Perth Cruise on Oceania Cruise Line; 2025