Toba, Japan, is a picturesque coastal city known for its rich maritime heritage, stunning natural beauty, and cultural significance. Nestled on the Shima Peninsula, Toba is famous for its pearl cultivation, particularly the Mikimoto Pearl Island, where the modern pearl industry was born.
We experienced the thrill of riding the lightning-fast bullet train for 2 hours from Tokyo to Nagoya on our way to Toba. The Japanese call this train the Shinkansen. It is one of the world’s finest quick-transit trains, and still among the fastest trains in the world, traveling at speeds of up to 160 mph. The trains are renowned for their speed, safety, and punctuality, with an average delay of less than a minute over an entire year.
Between Nagoya and Toba, we visited Ise City to see the Ise Shrine.
Ise Shrine
Ise Shrine is one of Japan’s most revered Shinto shrines. Shinto is the traditional religion of Japan, centered on the worship of kami, which are spirits or deities that inhabit natural elements, objects, and ancestors. Shinto is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and does not have a single founder or sacred scripture like many other religions. Instead, it is based on rituals and practices that have been passed down through generations.
This shrine complex is split into two main shrines: the Inner Shrine (Naikū), the more sacred of the two enshrines Amaterasu (goddess of the sun and the universe,); and the Outer Shrine (Gekū) is dedicated to Toyouke (the deity of agriculture and industry.)
Ise Shrine is renowned for its ritual of Shikinen Sengu, a tradition dating back over 1,300 years, in which the shrine buildings are completely rebuilt every 20 years. This ritual symbolizes the Shinto belief in the impermanence of all things and the renewal of life. The shrine is also deeply connected to the Japanese imperial family, with the current emperor traditionally sending an emissary to pay respects during key ceremonies. The pictures below are taken from photos at the shrine.
Surrounded by ancient forests and set apart from the bustle of modern life, Ise Shrine is a place of pilgrimage for many, embodying the spiritual heart of Japan. Ise Shrine is actually a collection of many shrines—a riverside complex with some structures dating back 2,000 years. We enjoyed a 1.5-hour peaceful and meditative (despite the numbers of visitors!) walking tour through the shrines.
Pearl Farming
In 1893, Mikimoto Kokochi discovered a process for producing cultured (farmed) pearls. As a result, 95% of pearls today are cultured. Our visit with a pearl farming family provided a pearl harvesting demonstration and some hands-on experience!
First we were taught how to take the knife to open the oyster!
We were given our tools…
Eventually….this is what we found!!
A later presenter explained the various colors and grades of the pearls.
And, of course, we all came home with a pearl!!!
“AMA”, Women of the Sea
The Ama women, also known as “Ama divers,” are traditional female free divers in Japan, renowned for their ability to dive deep into the ocean to collect seafood such as abalone, sea urchins, and pearls. The word “Ama” literally means “sea women.” This practice dates back over 2,000 years, and the Ama women have been an integral part of coastal communities, particularly in regions like Ise-Shima, Toba, and the Noto Peninsula.
Ama women traditionally dive without the use of breathing apparatus, relying solely on their breath-holding capabilities. They typically dive to depths of up to 30-65 feet and can stay underwater for over a minute. In modern times, many Ama have adopted wetsuits for warmth and protection.
Ama women were historically employed by the Mikimoto Pearl Company to collect oysters for cultured pearls. Although modern pearl farming techniques have reduced the need for such diving, the Ama played a crucial role in the pearl industry. Their main catch these days is seafood…. Sea cucumbers, octopus, lobster, sea urchins, and seaweed.
These ladies are already in their late 60’s and early 70’s and have been doing this job since their teens!! Their numbers are dwindling since girls these days have many other options. In the 1940s, there were 6,000 active ama; today it is more like 60 or 70 divers in a generation.
Efforts are being made to preserve this unique cultural tradition, with some Ama communities promoting tourism and cultural exchange programs. Presently, they only go out 1.5 hours each morning and have other jobs to supplement their income (like cooking our lunch!).
We had an opportunity to taste the seafood the divers caught today and discuss their professions and lifestyles.
Today, while the number of Ama divers has dwindled, those who remain continue to embody a deep connection to nature and a commitment to preserving their ancient way of life. The Ama women are often celebrated in Japanese culture, appearing in folklore, literature, and art. Their resilience, skill, and connection to the sea have made them iconic figures in Japan’s coastal heritage.
What a pleasure to meet these ladies. They have love what they do and are happy, happy, happy people! So much we Americans could learn from them!!
Mikimoto Pearl Island is a green, lush island sitting on Toba Bay and the very first place in the world that succeeded in culturing pearls. We visited the Pearl Museum and watched a diving demonstration by the AMA women who were wearing their traditional white diving costume.
A boat takes them to the diving spot and they jump in and open the basket in which they collect their items. The floating basket is tied to their waist while they dive and also serves as a resting spot when they surface!
The Pearl Museum is a fascinating institution dedicated to the history and craftsmanship of pearl cultivation.
Exhibits showcase the intricate processes involved in pearl cultivation, from oyster farming to creating exquisite jewelry.
The museum also features stunning displays of rare and valuable pearls. It not only celebrates the beauty of pearls but also serves as a testament to the innovation and cultural heritage of Toba.
Ryokan Dinner
Dinner tonight was extraordinary! We were even given the clothes and slippers to wear!!
A ryokan dinner is a traditional multi-course Japanese meal that is often served to guests staying at a ryokan, a type of Japanese inn. The meal emphasizes seasonal ingredients, with dishes crafted to highlight the freshest produce, fish, and other local delicacies available at that time of year.
Before we dressed for dinner, we had some instructions!
The individual dinner tables were lined up in a private dining room!
Each course is presented with great attention to detail, using beautiful dishes made from ceramics, lacquer, or bamboo. The colors, shapes, and arrangement of the food are carefully chosen to enhance the dining experience.
The ryokan staff, dressed in traditional attire, provided attentive service, explaining each dish and ensuring a serene and enjoyable dining experience. The dining experience is not just about the food but also the atmosphere.
It ended with these desserts! What an experience!!!!
Origami
Our after-dinner entertainment one evening was the craft of origami.
While many other cultures engaged in paper folding, it was the Japanese that made it an art form. The term comes from the Japanese words oru (to fold) and kami (paper).
When origami was first practiced, paper was expensive, so the craft was only for the elite. It wasn’t until Japan’s Edo Period (1603–1868)—when paper was more affordable—that origami was viewed as a leisurely activity. Common people began practicing origami and gifting their paper creations to friends and family. Today, origami continues to be a popular pastime in Japan and around the world.
Origami cranes are symbols of hope and love. The crane represents good fortune and longevity, and its wings are believed to provide protection. We hope the longevity is in better shape than our finished cranes!!
