October, 2022 while traveling with Overseas Adventure Travel
Seoul, is a bustling metropolis known for its modern skyscrapers, cutting-edge technology, and vibrant pop culture. It has been called “The Miracle on the Han” for its stunning rebirth after near destruction in the Korean War.
Watched over by four “guardian” mountains, the metropolis is a buzzing, fast-paced playground for about ten million residents. It is Korea’s biggest city and the heart of Korean culture, education, politics, and economy. We were amazed at its density…but also amazed at what a very clean, safe, and orderly city it is.
Eight of us just finished a Mongolian tour; we are now joined by 8 new tour members…coming from Colorado, Arizona, and Pennsylvania. Our Korean tour guide is Pam (who appears to be highly capable and sweet.)
The 16 of us are ready to learn about South Korea! Seoul and its surrounding areas will be the focus of this trip. Seoul, the capital, is located in the Gyeonggi Province. Seoul was rated Asia’s most livable city, with the second-highest quality of life globally in 2015.
Gyeongbok Palace
Gyeongbok Palace is also known as the Northern Palace. This 14th-century site is the largest of the “Five Grand Palaces” of Korea’s last and longest-ruling family, the Joseon Dynasty (who ruled for 500 years.) This palace earns its nickname from its location farther north than the other four palace complexes. The name “Gyeongbok” means “Greatly Blessed by Heaven,” reflecting its importance and auspicious nature.
This palace is considered the most beautiful of the 5 palaces. It was destroyed by fire during the Japanese Invasions but later rebuilt (1852-1919.)
During this period, Korean Confucianism was introduced, which remains a fundamental part of Korean society today…..it shapes the moral system, way of life, and social relations between old and young and is the basis for much of the legal system.
We explored the massive compound during a heavy rain! It includes multiple museums, ornamental gardens, and some of Seoul’s most impressive architectural sights…but it was a little hard to appreciate it all with umbrellas and big puddles to jump over!
The complex boasts numerous halls, pavilions, and gardens, including the majestic Gwanghwamun Gate and the elegant Gyeonghoeru Pavilion. Gyeongbok Palace is not only a testament to Korea’s architectural heritage but also a vibrant cultural site where traditional ceremonies and performances are regularly held today.
We took plenty of pictures, but the gray skies and rain really took from the beauty before our eyes (thus, I had to take some pics from Google!!) Nonetheless, we enjoyed our visit and learning about this period of history.
As we walked around the complex, we observed fellow tourists in hanbok — historical costumes designed to mimic the fashions of the Joseon Dynasty. (These seem especially popular among selfie-snapping young women!)
Bukchon Hanok Village
Bukchon Hanok Village is a picturesque enclave that offers a glimpse into Korea’s past. This charming village is home to hundreds of hanoks, traditional Korean houses, which have been preserved to maintain their historical and cultural significance.
We walked through the narrow, winding streets of Bukchon to admire the unique architectural details of the hanoks, such as their curved tiled roofs, wooden beams, and stone foundations.
This is a living museum where residents and local artisans continue to practice traditional crafts, and offer cultural experiences like tea ceremonies, calligraphy, and Korean cooking classes.
Glimpses of Seoul as it stood before 1953 are rare, so this neighborhood visit of homes from centuries past, ingeniously restored and still occupied, was a real pleasure.
War Memorial of Korea
This museum was established in memory of wars fought on the Korean Peninsula, particularly the Korean War. The Korean War fought between 1950 and 1953, split Korea in two and pitted families against one another, with some 2.5 million people losing their lives. After so much death and destruction, the war ended in an inconclusive and unsatisfying military stalemate.
This was an excellent and poignant memorial…really an exceptional tribute and appreciation to those who fought and died in this war.
21 countries helped South Korea in this war, with the US being the first to enter the war with troops. Countries were represented with flags and, in the case of the US, names listed by states.
Today, North Korea and South Korea operate as separate entities and hostile enemies. But in the museum, we saw that many wish for peace, which has come to represent a symbolic hope for reunification for many Koreans. The museum has six exhibit halls showcasing thousands of artifacts—including weapons, statues, and historical documents—from the war.
Joseon Dynasty Turtle Ship….used 15-19th century… lots of spikes on the top deck so invaders could not jump on the ship!
Lunch at a Traditional Korean Restaurant
Controversial Topic: A North Korean Defector
This was a brutal story to hear. Our speaker was Eummu Parks. Over a tough 6+ years, she became a defector from North Korea. Although she looks about 12 yrs old….she is actually 32!!
She was born into the lowest class of a North Korean family ….her dad was in prison, and the family had little to eat. She tried multiple times to escape to support her family. After four times, she finally found a series of “brokers” who got her to China. Unfortunately, the brokers were not getting her to freedom….. instead selling her to a man as a sex slave (she was 17 at the time.). After six years, he died, and she could escape again. This time she got to South Korea via Laos & Thailand.
After arriving, the South Korean government provided the money for her to pay the brokers who directed her there. The SK government has a program to help defectors get on their feet. This amazing young lady has worked so hard for so long and has now graduated from college and become a teacher. She gave her story to us in English….although questions were provided through an interpreter.
Her mother and sister, who also defected( in order to find Eummu), finally ended up in South Korea (after being trafficked). The agency was able to reunite them. This was really a tear-jerker to sit through, but necessary to actually meet the victim and comprehend the struggles unfamiliar to so many of us.
Even more impressive is that her sister became somewhat of a celebrity in South Korea after writing this book! She ended up speaking before the United Nations and now lives in New York City. I imagine they are all still healing from the trauma. But there is another note of sadness which was really surprising. In this wholesome, polite, and kind South Korean society…..there is discrimination against the North Koreans…..which she has had to endure.
We posed for a pic at the end, but also sang the song “You are My Sunshine” to her….and she was our sunshine!
As an isolationist dictatorship regime, North Korea frequently tops the list of countries with the worst human rights violations. In fact, a survey conducted from 2015 to 2018 found that three out of four North Korean defectors had personally experienced physical violence or the death of a close family member before choosing to flee the state. In North Korea, even the smallest of crimes—such as watching a Hollywood film, speaking negatively about the government, or making unauthorized international phone calls—is punishable by torture, prison, or death (for both the perpetrator and their families). Detention in concentration camps and forced starvation are not uncommon. Even those North Koreans who manage to escape the ire of their government are subjected to harsh lives of scarcity, oppression, and the absence of technological advancements. For example, most North Koreans do not have Internet access.
Sadly, the hardships continue south of the border for many defectors. Discrimination against North Koreans is common, making it difficult for defectors to obtain jobs and obtain access to medical care. Often, they are treated as second-class citizens in their new homes. In a recent poll, around 50% of defectors claimed that they experienced discrimination from their South Korean neighbors, which can have disastrous consequences in extreme cases. In 2019, a North Korean defector and her six-year-old son were found dead in their home after a water meter inspector came to collect an unpaid bill. Since then, many people have been paying closer attention to the support defectors receive from the South Korean government; others are still wary of their northern neighbors.
Jusarang Community Church Baby “Drop Box”
Decades ago, Pastor Lee Jong-Rak woke to find a baby freezing on his doorstep with nothing more than a cardboard box to protect it from the blustery winter wind. This horrifying discovery eventually led him to install a “drop box” in the wall of his home, which would provide a safe way for people to anonymously leave unwanted children.
Since its inception, more than 1,600 newborns have been left in the box, a service entirely funded by private donations. In addition to the temperature-controlled box, the church offers help to single mothers faced with this difficult decision, such as temporary shelter, food, and monetary support.
We sat down with Lim Sun Joo, head of baby box operations and a counselor for single parents. Although it was technically decriminalized in 2020, abortion within South Korea is a taboo subject that locals don’t typically discuss, and those who do are often looked down upon.
It also comes with many restrictions and is largely inaccessible to much of the population. Even unwed mothers. who wish to keep their baby, face gut-wrenching repercussions for their precarious position, like social ostracism (even among family members), difficulty finding husbands willing to accept such a past, and discrimination in the workplace. Therefore, the outcome for expectant single mothers is rarely a positive one.
Ninety percent of babies born to single mothers in South Korea end up in orphanages; in contrast, this number is just one percent in the United States. Part of this is because traditional Confucian society is founded upon the nuclear family structure: husband, wife, and children. Anything outside of this construct is a perceived threat and brings shame.
To further complicate matters for those who don’t fall in line with this social order, recent laws put into effect require mothers to register all family information in public databases—whereas, before 2012, these unwed mothers were able to take their babies directly to adoption agencies without revealing their identity. More and more single mothers are forced to abandon their babies to avoid being discovered.
As with all social issues, there is no simple solution, but many in South Korea are glad that services like the baby box exist. It gives single mothers an option, albeit challenging, and provides a safe haven for babies.
Still, the baby box is not without opposition, even by government–in fact, it called for its removal at once. Critics say the practice violates a child’s right to know and be taken care of by their biological parents. They also argue that it’ an “easy way out” of parenthood. Especially among younger generations, these viewpoints are quickly evolving, and the decriminalization of abortion is evidence of this progression.
Home-Hosted Lunch
Our group split into smaller groups to enjoy Home-Hosted Lunches with local families. The family to which we were assigned lived in this apartment building.
This was a rare opportunity to witness the everyday lives of typical residents of Seoul and glimpse authentic Korean culture. Our family was a lovely mother/daughter. The daughter who took time off work to be with us (and interpret!!)
During this enlightening exchange, we learned about our hosts while enjoying a traditional meal….seasonal vegetables, beef, and soup. The daughter loved American Baseball….and luckily, the hostess gift we brought was a baseball cap!!
A Day in the Life of Yangpyeong Village
Yangpyeong Village is a rural farming community., about a 30-minute train ride outside of Seoul. On the way to the village, we stopped at a local market to pick up ingredients for our lunch in the village. We were taught some essential Korean words to aid in our purchases!
We met the village leader, Mr. Bang, who introduced the community and guided us on a walking tour.
Yangpyeong is a small rural village of about 100 households made up of farming families. For generations, people of the village have lived with organic farming using snail mucus as a pesticide and distributing grains and produce to markets throughout the country.
Mr. Bang was born and raised in the village, and his ancestors have lived here in Yangpyeong since 1580. He is married with two children who now live in the city, and his teenage grandson currently lives and works in the village with him. Every two years, the village elects a new leader, and Mr. Bang was recently voted in due to his integral role in the community.
Today, the village comprises descendants of original farmers who keep their traditions alive and older people from the city who choose to spend their retirement in the quiet countryside. Just 30 minutes from Seoul by train, Yangpyeong is frequented by many school students and families from the city throughout the year so that they can learn about traditional agricultural practices and rural South Korean life.
As we walked around the village, Mr. Bang took us to meet farmers hard at work doing things like picking perilla leaves (an herb in the mint family typically used to garnish Korean dishes) or working on the intricacies of rice production.
We concluded at the home of a local family where Mr. Bang introduced us to Aunt San-Jang, our hostess for the afternoon where we spent time to see what rural Korean life is genuinely like.
We helped Aunt San-Jang prepare makguli (rice wine) mixed with fruit extract for a refreshing libation to sip on as we learn about her and the life she’s built. Aunt San-Jang moved to Yangpyeong in 2000 upon retirement after her husband passed away, and she enjoys her simple, quiet life here with her daughter, who lives in the community.
She led us around her one-story home, including her vegetable garden and quaint front yard. We gathered in the garden to help prepare our lunch; some made japchae (sweet potato noodles and vegetables) while others made kat-ipjeon (perilla leaf stuffed with minced pork and vegetables). The group then prepared dessert—injeolmi, a rice cake with bean powder.
After savoring dessert, we enjoyed a discussion with village community members. What an absolutely delightful day into a traditional Korean life.
A Visit to the DMZ
We drove into the Demilitarized Zone (or “DMZ”) between North and South Korea. In 1953, North and South Korea worked out an agreement (with prodding from China and the U.S.) to allow for a buffer zone separating the ideologically opposed regions. Whenever the two Koreas need to negotiate, they enter the DMZ. As carefully controlled as that may sound, four tunnels beneath the DMZ have been discovered, one of which appeared to be part of a North Korean plot to attack Seoul. Monitoring has been constant ever since.
This was a really unique experience, offering a mix of history and poignant reflection. The DMZ (160-mile-long and 2.5-mile-wide) , is one of the most heavily fortified borders in the world. Our tour included the Third Infiltration Tunnel, one of several tunnels discovered allegedly dug by North Korea for a potential invasion, and the Freedom Bridge, which once connected North and South Korea.
We could witness the stark contrast between the two Koreas, peering across the border into the North from observatories equipped with telescopes. The atmosphere is charged with a sense of tension and hope, as the DMZ symbolizes both division and the potential for reunification.
Other Sites/Displays:
Oeam Folk Village
Oeam Folk Village is a well-preserved example of a traditional Korean village that offers visitors a window into the country’s agrarian past. Dating back over 500 years to the Joseon Dynasty, the village is renowned for its authentic hanok houses, stone walls, and thatched-roof cottages.
This lovely village is about 90 minutes southwest of Seoul. It is described as a clan village, and home to the Yi family. This Village was originally founded around the early 16th century.
Unlike many recreated folk villages, Oeam is a living community where descendants of the original inhabitants still reside, maintaining their cultural heritage and traditional way of life. We could explore narrow, winding pathways that lead to charming courtyards, ancient trees, and meticulously maintained gardens.
It is surrounded by rice fields and has a beautiful flowing stream delivering mountain water, lots of stone walls, and is filled with well- tended fields of crops. Our first visit was with Mrs. Yi, wife of the eldest son (the 14th descendent of the clan),and the one responsible for carrying on the recipes and ancestral rites that are passed down through the generations.
She maintains the traditions and integrity of the family and shared with us the process of making Gochujang…a red chili paste. This is one of the three main sauces in Korean cooking: Gangjang (soy sauce), Doenjang (soybean paste), and the chili paste we made, Gochujang.
Traditionally, Gochujang is fermented for many years in these types of earthenware. These jars are filled with ingredients like chili paste, soy sauce, and fermented soy beans.
More than half of the buildings are thatch-roofed, and every year the residents have to thatch the roof with new straw.
The technique has been handed down by tradition in this village and is considered a UNESCO “valuable intangible cultural heritage.”
The houses, and village walls, are made from stones from the surrounding fields. The entire village has been designated as a “folk village” by the government. Most houses consist of two L-shaped buildings. The buildings face each other, creating a rectangular inner courtyard at the center. Currently, there are 69 household in this town with 38 of them engaged in farming. The population is about 192 people in all.
A Last day of Exploring…..the City
Seoul is full of neon, restaurants, and shopping….a thoroughly modern and vibrant city.
Food Experiences…….
And New Friends….
