Northern Taiwan

We signed up for a Full-Day Private tour to Northern Taiwan and were picked up by our guide, Stephen, who drove us between four sites.

Yehliu Geopark

Yehliu Geopark is a geological wonder, showcasing a surreal landscape sculpted by millennia of erosion. It is a recognized UNESCO Global Geopark. 

A geopark is a protected area with an internationally significant geological heritage. There are 229 UNESCO Global Geoparks in 50 Nations. We have never visited a Geopark site before, and there are none in the U.S.

This park is located on a thin strip of land that juts out into the East China Sea. It is renowned for its unique rock formations, shaped by wind and sea, that resemble fantastical creatures and objects. A few of the highlights:

“Sea Candles”

“Mushroom Rocks.” Shaped like mushrooms, with a thick top and thin stem, formed by differential erosion (the top is harder rock, the base softer).

Ginger Rocks Created by long-term weathering of sandstone and changes in the mineral content; Lumpy, bumpy rocks that look like pieces of ginger root.

Honeycomb Rocks Rocks with many small holes, like a honeycomb or sponge. Formed by salt crystallization and chemical weathering.

The park’s otherworldly scenery, combined with the dramatic backdrop of the ocean, creates a really mesmerizing experience (despite the crowds of people!) There was a section of the park we did not have time for on this day-trip….but we certainly appreciated the glimpse we had into the powerful forces of nature and the artistry they can create.

Shifen Waterfall 

Shifen Waterfall, often referred to as “Taiwan’s Little Niagara” (because it is Taiwan’s largest waterfall!), is a broad, cascading waterfall that plunges dramatically into a deep pool below, creating a misty, picturesque scene. The surrounding foliage and rocky terrain really enhance the waterfall’s beauty.

We walked to various vantage points to get different perspectives and hear the thunderous roar of the water. We were lucky to be here at this time of year, when loads of water was flowing down from the mountains.

Jiufen Old Street 

Jiufen is a historic mountain town famous for its nostalgic charm, narrow alleyways, and great views of the Pacific Ocean—more specifically, the East China Sea.  It has also become one of Taiwan’s most popular day-trip destinations because of its old-world atmosphere, teahouses, lantern-lit streets, and rich cultural history.

Jiufen started in the late 1800s as a small, isolated village. Its name means “nine portions,” which referred to the original nine families who lived there and shared deliveries from the outside world.

It changed dramatically during the gold rush of 1893 when gold was discovered in the area. Under Japanese colonial rule (1895–1945), the town grew rapidly and became a bustling mining hub, earning the nickname “Little Shanghai.” The architecture from this era—narrow stairways, red lanterns, and Japanese-style wooden buildings—is still what we see today.

The gold mines were shut down in the 1970s, and Jiufen faded into obscurity. But it was rediscovered in the 1990s thanks in part to its role in the award-winning Taiwanese film “A City of Sadness.” Its streets and stunning mountain-sea views captured public imagination, and Jiufen was reborn as the cultural and popular tourist destination it is today.

Today…the streets are mostly closed to vehicles, so aside from a few mopeds or motorbikes, Jiufen’s Old Street is pedestrian-only. We could only get there by climbing LOTS of concrete stairs and it was a real workout! We had to pause frequently, either to catch our breath or to let others pass, (Luckily, on the way down, our guide knew a few “shortcuts” through the steep terrain and narrow alleys!) The streets are more like staircases—steep, sometimes slippery, and rarely level!

Once we climbed, we found the Jiufen Old Street. It is like a narrow alleyway lined up with small food stalls, tea houses, cute souvenir shops, and pottery stores. Fortunately, we are not claustrophobic…..getting through the crowds was not always easy! It was equal parts enchantment and chaos! We were thinking it was crowded because we were there on a weekend, but our guide said that most days are this busy.

We took a break at another old teahouse perched on the edge of a cliff…snagging a lovely ocean-facing balcony. We felt we earned this rest!!!

Despite the fact that this village is extremely touristy and crowded, it was still very interesting to learn about the history and its reincarnation into the 21st century. We were tired, yet it felt like we had walked through a storybook town that belonged to another time. If we were to return, we would rent one of the overnight accommodations, take some of the area hiking trails, visit the nearby gold mine and enjoy the old street early in the morning before the crowds arrive!!!

Shifen Old Street

Shifen is famous for its picturesque old street, historic railway, and most importantly, the release of sky lanterns.

This village, surrounded by lush green hills, waterfalls, and rivers, was originally established during the early 20th century under Japanese rule. Coal mining was a booming industry in northern Taiwan at that time and Shifen’s development centered around the railway line which was built to transport the coal through the mountains.  The narrow-gauge railway, still in operation today for tourists, became the heart of Shifen, with trains passing directly through the town’s narrow main street!

When the coal industry declined in the 1980s, and Shifen faced economic downturn, the community reinvented itself by shifting to tourism and cultural preservation. One of the key draws became the sky lantern tradition, which traces its roots to early villagers using lanterns to signal safety during periods of bandit attacks. Over time, this practical communication evolved into the cultural and spiritual practice of writing wishes on lanterns and releasing them into the sky—a symbol of hope and renewal.  And here we are today to take part!

We cozied up to our newly purchased lantern and considered our personal wishes/dreams/prayers for us, all centered around family and health. The balloons were clamped to a stand and sides were alternated as we wrote our wishes.

The lanterns were divided into color zones, with each color representing a different type of blessing—such as red for health, yellow for wealth, or blue for career success.

Sending our dreams soaring into the sky…..

Then, it was time to release them into the sky, believing the lanterns will carry our hopes upward toward the heavens. A young man lit the base of the lantern, filing it with hot air, and causing it to rise gently into the sky. It was a pretty breathtaking display against the mountain backdrop.

The street is also lined with vendors selling local snacks, souvenirs, and traditional crafts….but it is the lantern experience I will never forget.

At that moment, it seemed like Shifen was one of the happiest places we had ever been! So many families together preparing their lanterns and celebrating their hopes and wishes…..so much hope and excitement in the air. What a meaningful ritual in which to take part.