Travel Buddies: Pete & Joan

Living the Dream, One Trip at a Time

Suchitoto

Our plane from Houston had several delays, but immigration went quickly after landing in El Salvador. We found our driver who was to take us to meet our group in Suchitoto. Little did we know it would take us 2 hours to travel under 30 miles!

Two men posing for a photo at night, smiling while holding a suitcase and a backpack. The background shows trees and buildings illuminated by soft lights.

But the drive was a route that taught us a lot about El Salvador. The city around the airport thinned quickly, the buildings dropped to single stories, then to small shops with metal shutters and hand-painted signs. The road narrowed, curved more, and the landscape turned greener as we climbed and climbed through low hills. The houses were simple—cinder block or metal, tin roofs, bright colors, and small roadside shops selling sodas and snacks.

A street scene in El Salvador featuring a simple house with a metal roof, showcasing local life with people sitting at a small table selling fruit and snacks.
A simple, corrugated metal building with a colorful door, clothes hanging outside, and a community sign reading 'Emmanuel', surrounded by vegetation.
A roadside shop in El Salvador featuring colorful banners for various mobile service providers like Claro and Tigo, with visible trees and streetside seating.

Along the way, we saw people walking along the shoulders. There are no sidewalks in most stretches, just packed dirt and grass, so walking the road is normal. We learned that fewer than 20% of people in El Salvador own cars. Walking, motorcycles, and buses are the primary means of transportation for the population.

A winding road in El Salvador, featuring a sloped hillside with houses and greenery, as well as an archway overhead marking an entry point.
We saw many towns with these entry arches… they seem to be a Latin American thing, letting us know we “have arrived”!!!

We saw LOTS of buses, which are mostly converted U.S. school buses! Many were retired from service in the U.S., shipped to Central America, and then completely rebuilt and personalized. I read that, mechanically, they’re kept alive far beyond what you’d expect, and visually, they become rolling expressions of identity, painted in bright colors and featuring chrome and blinking LED lights! But these buses are essential transportation… for many people walking along that road, the bus is their car. They connect villages to schools, markets, jobs, and hospitals.

A colorful converted school bus, commonly used for transportation in El Salvador, decorated with chrome details and bright lights, parked on a city street while a pedestrian walks by.

They are called “chicken buses”!

A colorful, chrome-decorated bus in El Salvador, showcasing a unique and vibrant design typical of the country's public transportation.

Some people live in areas that these big buses cannot reach… so this is their mode of transport!

A crowded public transport truck with passengers leaning against railings, showcasing the typical transportation style in El Salvador.

Another thing we saw along the way….many policemen and/or military personnel. Both our guide and driver told us that El Salvador is much safer now than it was in the past, with homicide rates plunging to historic lows.

As part of an ongoing anti-gang strategy, police and military powers have been expanded to arrest and detain suspected gang members. As a result, tourism is up significantly!

Two children on horseback, one wearing a blue and yellow costume with a decorative hat, the other in a red and yellow outfit with a crown, riding along a street lined with shops and graffiti.
Today is January 6, marking the biblical visit of the Three Wise Men to the infant Jesus. In many Latin American countries, the Christmas season continues until this date….thus the sighting of these wise men in a village we drove through!

It was dark when we arrived in Suchitoto, and the rest of the group had already finished dinner. But even in the dark, we could see why Suchitoto is said to be one of the most beautiful and better-preserved cities in Central America. (It was also the first capital of El Salvador around 1528.)

A night view of the Church of Santa Lucía in Suchitoto, El Salvador, illuminated by street lamps and surrounded by greenery.
Iglesia Santa Lucía Church….the most iconic landmark in Suchitoto and one of the country’s most beautiful colonial-era churches

When the group returned, our guide Carlos walked with us to the town square to get a beer and the national dish…. the pupusa, a thick, handmade corn or rice flour tortilla stuffed with various fillings like cheese, beans, or pork. It is then cooked on a griddle and served with a cabbage slaw and tomato sauce.  The wait was long, but the dish was tasty!

A plate of golden brown pupusas served with a side of red salsa, a lime wedge, and garnished with fresh cilantro.
The pupusa is a cultural touchstone dating back almost 2,000 years. They are apparently made in much the same way now as they were centuries ago by the Mesoamerican Pipil tribe.
Two men sitting at a table in a vibrant restaurant, enjoying drinks and smiling at the camera. The restaurant features colorful decor and other patrons in the background.

Then on to our new home and bed!!

We were pleased with our hotel…. Los Almendros de San Lorenzo, one of Suchitoto’s boutique hotels.  It is a beautifully restored colonial-era house in the heart of the colonial district, just steps from the central plaza. It is a 200-year-old building, but it had all the modern comforts we needed!

Entrance of Los Almendros de San Lorenzo hotel, showcasing colonial architecture with wooden doors and decorative exterior lighting.
Entrance pathway surrounded by lush green plants leading to a rustic building in Suchitoto, El Salvador.
A cozy living room with wooden beams, featuring a large dining table, bookshelves filled with books, and various artworks on the walls, illuminated by natural light from open windows.

Over the next couple of days, we had time to walk around and appreciate Suchitoto in the daylight. …its cobblestone streets, well-preserved Spanish architecture, and a central plaza dominated by the 19th-century Church of Santa Lucía.

Interior view of a large, ornate church featuring wooden pillars, stained glass, and religious icons on the altar.
The inside of the Iglesia Santa Lucía Church. The simple but graceful interior has wooden altars, statues of saints, and intricate details that reflect both Spanish colonial and local craftsmanship.
A plain blue wall with several small marks and stains scattered across its surface.

We noticed bullet holes in several of the buildings…they are left from the Salvadorian Civil War (1978-1990). Suchitoto was a strategic town during the conflict, and both the guerrilla fighters and government forces operated in the surrounding countryside.

They have apparently been left unrepaired as a reminder of the war and the lives lost… as witnesses to history.

A quaint building featuring a traditional facade with wooden beams, surrounded by vibrant bougainvillea and outdoor seating. A dog is visible near the entrance, and a child is seen on the right side.
Lots of shady colonnaded streets, whitewashed houses with wooden balconies and terracotta-tiled roofs… over a millennium of history to learn, from pre-Hispanic origins to modern-day cultural revival.
Colorful colonial building with a sign reading 'Casa de la Abuela', surrounded by greenery and cobblestone street, in Suchitoto, El Salvador.

Often considered the country’s cultural capital, Suchitoto sits overlooking the beautiful Suchitlán Lake, a large artificial lake surrounded by lush hills and abundant birdlife.

Aerial view of Suchitoto, El Salvador, showcasing its colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and the nearby Suchitlán Lake surrounded by lush hills.

Suchitoto is a center for the arts — art galleries, handicraft markets, and festivals feature music, dance, and film. There is an indigo collective that celebrates and revives the traditional indigo craft of El Salvador.

The Indigo Collective

Wooden sign for Arte Anil by Irma Guadron, featuring blue stylized designs and text.

This group of artisans works to preserve the cultural heritage of natural indigo dyeing and provides local income opportunities through handmade textiles and garments dyed with indigo. They produce and sell handcrafted indigo-dyed textiles — clothing, accessories, and home items — using traditional dyeing methods derived from the native indigo plant. 

Close-up of green leaves with small pink flowers, showcasing a delicate plant with elongated, pinnate leaves.

The process begins with cultivating the indigo plant, which thrives in the country’s warm climate and fertile soil. Farmers harvest the leaves once the plant reaches maturity, usually during the rainy season, when the pigment content is at its highest.

  • After harvesting, the indigo leaves are placed in large vats filled with water and left to ferment. The leaves release a compound that eventually produces the deep blue pigment. The liquid is stirred to control temperature and oxygen levels.
  • When fermentation is complete, the liquid is drained into another vat and beaten or agitated, allowing oxygen to react with the solution and precipitate the indigo pigment.
  • The pigment then settles to the bottom of the vat and is collected, filtered, and dried into a paste or a solid.
Close-up of a display featuring handmade ceramic pots in various colors, set on a wooden surface with crocheted items in foreground. Background includes fabric and a table with additional crafting materials.
This model represents the different stages of the process.
A woman in a blue shirt sitting next to a bucket of dye, immersed in a textile dyeing process, surrounded by craft supplies in a workshop.

To dye the textiles, artisans dissolve the indigo in a dye bath and reduce it to a soluble state. Fabric or yarn is submerged repeatedly, and although it emerges greenish at first, it gradually turns blue as it oxidizes in the air. Multiple dips deepen the color, creating the rich shades characteristic of Salvadoran indigo.

A textile studio featuring indigo-dyed fabrics, a wooden table cluttered with materials, and a person wearing a hat, standing amidst the artistic environment.
Then off to the designer and assemblers to produce really beautiful clothing and home decor.
A boutique interior featuring various clothing items in shades of blue and indigo, including dresses and scarves, displayed on racks. Blue and white patterned cushions are arranged on a sofa. The walls showcase textile art and decor.
A collection of blue fabric wall hangings featuring various designs, including botanical patterns and circular motifs, displayed against a white wall. A sewing machine and small tables can be seen in the foreground.
A display of handcrafted blue tie-dye dresses hanging on wooden racks in a boutique, showcasing unique patterns and textures.

This indigo blue was so rich and beautiful! It was very tempting to buy something… but, as usual with our carry-on-only approach to travel, it would be hard to fit anything additional for the trip home!

Enjoying Lake Suchitlán…

Lake Suchitlán is the largest freshwater lake in El Salvador, but it is not a natural lake. It was created in the 1970s as a reservoir behind a dam, and it flooded more than 37,000 acres of land and displaced many communities, making space for what would become the country’s biggest freshwater body and a key source of hydroelectric power. Although it is an artificial lake, it produces most of the country’s electricity. 

A scenic view of a lake surrounded by lush greenery and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.

Like many large reservoirs worldwide, Lake Suchitlán suffers from pollution and nutrient runoff that affect its ecosystem.  Heavy metals, fertilizer nutrients, and waste all enter the lake from tributaries — including urban and industrial runoff — contributing to conditions where aquatic plants and algae can explode in growth during certain times of the year.

Scenic view of trees on a small island in Suchitlán Lake, surrounded by calm waters and distant mountains under a clear sky.

So, while it isn’t a sewage “cesspool” in the literal, untreated sense….pollution from rivers, cities, farms, and industries definitely affects the lake’s health and creates conditions that can compromise water quality. It did not, however, impact the enjoyment of our boat ride to observe this biologically vibrant wetland. In 2005, the site was designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance — one of the key recognitions wetlands can receive for bird and ecological value.

A scenic view of a calm lake surrounded by green hills, with a boat gliding across the water under a bright blue sky filled with fluffy clouds.

The lake supports many species of waterbirds, including herons, ducks, and others that thrive on the lakeshore vegetation and wetlands created by the reservoir. Our guide Carlos grew up in the jungle and really knows his birds…so he was quick to identify the different species for us.

A serene view of Suchitlán Lake in El Salvador with a white heron standing in the shallow waters, surrounded by lush greenery and rocky shores.
A majestic bird perched on a bare branch against a clear blue sky.

In certain seasons, migratory birds stop here on their long journeys between the Americas, resting and feeding before continuing southward.

A scenic view of a rocky island in Lake Suchitlán, featuring lush trees and birds perched on the branches under a colorful sky during sunset.

There are also large resident bird populations — for example, sizeable flocks of cormorants which breed locally rather than migrating.

As the sun started setting…even more beauty!

A stunning sunset over a body of water, with the sun casting a golden reflection on the surface.
A tranquil view of an island with a large tree at sunset, surrounded by calm waters and a colorful sky with scattered clouds.
Sunset over Suchitlán Lake with a small island silhouette and shimmering water reflections.

The story of Lake Suchitlán isn’t static. It’s a landscape shaped by engineering, a habitat recognized for its ecological importance, and a community grappling with environmental pressures. Fishing, both subsistence and small-scale commercial, is a part of local life. Efforts to manage pollution, control invasive plants, and protect wildlife continue — and the lake still offers some of El Salvador’s richest birdwatching and natural beauty opportunities.

And…in addition…we had great views of one of the 170 (active, old, and extinct) volcanoes in El Salvador!

Sunset view over Suchitlán Lake with mountains in the background, creating a serene landscape.

One of our travel companions, Bobbi Bragan, is an excellent photographer and has shared a YOUTUBE of her pics. This excellent video includes both Suchitoto and our next stop, Cinquera. Our photos could never come close to what Bobbi has produced!!!

These are photos with Salvadoran music of towns we visited in El Salvador. They both were centers of resistance during the Salvadoran Civil War in the 1980s. Both towns have colonial architecture. Suchitoto overlooks Lago Suchitlán, a large man-made lake with boats and migratory birds. Thank you Bobbi Bragan!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IPALR3syjA