5/28/26
Alexandria Bay is perched along the waters of the Alexandria Bay section of the St. Lawrence River in New York. It sits in the heart of the famous Thousand Islands Region. In this region, countless tree-covered islands dot the river between the US and Canada. Neither of us had visited this area before, so we took this opportunity to focus on this section of the St. Lawrence Seaway.
The Thousand Islands region is one of the most beautiful stretches of the Saint Lawrence River, where the river leaves Lake Ontario and begins its long journey toward the Atlantic. The islands vary enormously — from large forested islands with castles and resorts to tiny rocky outcrops barely big enough for a picnic table. Despite the name, the 1000 Island Region actually has about 1,864 islands scattered along the Saint Lawrence River (with the majority of the islands located in Ontario, Canada)
Our boat tour through the Thousand Islands aboard Uncle Sam Boat Tours was the highlight of our time in Alexandria Bay.
The cruise wound through a maze of tiny islands, grand summer “cottages,” hidden boathouses, and narrow channels along the beautiful St. Lawrence River. The scenery constantly changes, so there is almost always something to look at — from millionaire estates perched on private islands to huge international freighters quietly sliding by on the Seaway.
The narrated portion of the cruise was fun. The guide pointed out quirky island stories, tiny international boundary markers, celebrity cottages, and amusing local history as we traveled through both American and Canadian waters. (No passport was needed because we remained on the boat while crossing into Canadian waters.)
One of the most memorable sights on the water was the sheer number of cottages, boathouses, and summer homes tucked onto islands of every size. Many of those homes have been in the same families for generations. Beginning in the late 1800s, wealthy families from cities such as New York City, Montreal, and Toronto flocked to the area to escape the hot summers. What started as rustic fishing camps gradually became elaborate summer estates, or castles!
Some islands have only a tiny cabin and dock, while others contain sprawling mansions, guest houses, and ornate boathouses.
One of the stars of that trip was Singer Castle on Dark Island. This is one of the region’s most fascinating Gilded Age mansions… and where we had a guided tour.
Built in the early 1900s by Frederick Bourne, president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, the castle was designed to resemble a medieval European fortress, complete with towers, tunnels, numerous hidden passages (for the servants), and secret stairways. Singer Castle felt “lived in” and atmospheric because much of the original interior remains intact; however, today it operates as a museum and tourist attraction.
Another iconic sight on the river is Boldt Castle, the grand early-1900s mansion built by hotel magnate George Boldt as a tribute to his wife. Rising dramatically from Heart Island, the castle gives the area an almost fairy-tale atmosphere and has become one of the most beloved landmarks in the Northeast. We saw this castle on our cruise and from a viewpoint near our hotel, but we did not tour inside.
The Story Behind George and Louise Boldt
George Boldt was a German immigrant who arrived in the United States with very little money in the late 1800s. Brilliant, ambitious, and charismatic, he rose through the hotel world and eventually became proprietor of the famed Waldorf-Astoria New York — one of the most luxurious hotels in America. Despite his enormous success, people who knew him often described his devotion to Louise as the center of his life.
The story of George Boldt and Louise Boldt is one of the great romantic legends of the Thousand Islands.
In 1895, the Boldts purchased Heart Island in the St. Lawrence River. George envisioned creating not simply a summer home, but a six-story Rhineland-style castle as a monument to his love for Louise.
Construction was astonishingly ambitious: hundreds of workers, imported craftsmen, tunnels & Italian gardens, a massive yacht house, decorative towers and stone arches, and luxurious interiors planned with every modern convenience of the era.
The castle was intended as Louise’s Valentine’s gift and summer retreat. But tragedy intervened. In January 1904, before the castle was completed, Louise suddenly died at age 41, likely from heart failure. George was devastated. According to local tradition, he immediately sent a telegram ordering all construction to stop. And it was.
Workers laid down their tools and walked away. George never returned to Heart Island.
For more than seventy years, the unfinished castle sat abandoned — exposed to harsh winters, vandalism, and decay. Yet that sadness became part of its mystique. Visitors saw not just a mansion, but a frozen love story interrupted by grief.
In 1977, the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and began a massive restoration effort that continues today. Much of what is there now has been carefully rebuilt or restored. The emotional contrast is striking: extraordinary beauty and wealth paired with the knowledge that the dream was never fulfilled.
That bittersweet history is what makes Boldt Castle different from many other grand estates. It is not remembered primarily as a fortress or palace, but as a monument to love and loss.
And then, right in the middle of all the peaceful vacation scenery and beautiful homes… a giant Seaway freighter glides past! This makes the whole region feel wonderfully unusual!
The boat tour through the Thousand Islands felt like drifting through a hidden world where nature, history, and summer life all blend together. Around every bend of the river, there seemed to be another tiny island, another weathered boathouse, another grand cottage perched on smooth granite rock surrounded by sparkling water.
The castles, boathouses, and old summer estates hinted at the Gilded Age, when wealthy families first turned the Thousand Islands into a famous vacation playground. Even today, it still feels like a special escape from ordinary life.
1000 Island Dressing
One more thing we learned at this location! The question of 1000 Island Salad Dressing came up on several occasions! Here is what we learned…..
We stopped for a burger, which came dressed with 1000 Island dressing! I just had to ask if that famous dressing has its roots here. Our server said there are lots of stories and myths… but the dressing is definitely a product of this area.
Most versions trace the dressing back to the early 1900s along the St. Lawrence River near Alexandria Bay, where a fishing guide’s wife created the recipe for shore dinners served to wealthy visitors. Another version credits actress and cookbook author May Irwin, who supposedly shared the recipe with friends in New York society.
The dressing became nationally famous when it reportedly reached the dining rooms of the luxurious Waldorf Astoria New York. From there, it spread across America and eventually became a classic topping for salads, Reubens, burgers, and seafood.