The Jemez people trace their ancestry back over 800 years, originally living in large multi-story stone villages in the Jemez Mountains.  In the late 1500s, Spanish colonization brought missionaries and settlers, leading to conflict and suppression of indigenous culture. 

In 1680, the Jemez joined the Pueblo Revolt, a successful uprising against Spanish rule—the only time Native Americans expelled European colonizers in North America for over a decade.  After the Spanish reoccupation, the people consolidated into the modern pueblo of Walatowa, where they continue today to preserve their language and traditions.

The pueblo is located near dramatic red rock cliffs, which are hard to take your eyes from!  The rocks are primarily composed of iron-rich sedimentary rocks, especially sandstone and shale, that have oxidized over millions of years. The deep red and orange hues come from iron minerals in the rock, such as hematite. 

There were also many trails in the red sandstone canyons to hike: we would usually take advantage but with temps in the low 90’s and the midday sun…we passed it up this time!

The Walatowa History Museum was filled with simple placards, crafts and artifacts describing the Hemish (Jemez) culture.

Unfortunately, we found the receptionist at the museum to be less than helpful!  Luckily, we had met some locals at the Coronado Historical Site who told us about the things to look for in the area!  And we found them at the next stop, Jemez State Monument.

Jemez State Monument

San José de los Jémez Mission was built around 1621–1623 by Spanish Franciscan missionaries. It was part of Spain’s colonial effort to convert the Jemez people to Christianity and integrate them into Spanish colonial society.

Made from stone with thick walls and a large nave, it was one of the largest mission churches constructed in New Mexico at the time. It was abandoned by 1640s due to resistance from the Jemez people and ongoing conflict. The 1680 Pueblo Revolt led to a complete rejection of Spanish authority and Catholic missions.

Today, the mission church stands as a dramatic sandstone ruin — a powerful symbol of both Spanish colonization and Pueblo resistance.

 Giusewa

Ancient Jemez Village is named Giusewa which means “place of boiling water,” referring to the nearby hot springs.It dates back to the late 1400s or early 1500s, before Spanish contact.

The layout consists of stone dwellings arranged around plazas; many rooms and kivas (ceremonial spaces) have been excavated. This was a center of traditional life, farming, ceremony, and trade.

The actual ancient kiva at Kuaua Pueblo (on the site) was underground, like most Puebloan ceremonial structures.  Inside that original kiva were stunning pre-contact murals—among the oldest surviving Native American paintings in the U.S. To protect these fragile murals, the original kiva is no longer accessible to the public. Many of the murals are now housed in a climate-controlled museum.

This site illustrates a powerful narrative of cultural collision, survival, and resilience. It is one of the few places in the U.S. where you can walk among ruins of both a colonial European church and an ancestral Native village in the same place!

Soda Dam

This fascinating natural rock formation is called the Soda Dam.  It’s one of the most photogenic and geologically unique sites along the Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway.  It is formed by Mineral-rich hot spring water depositing calcium carbonate over thousands of years.  The dam looks like a bulbous, layered “soda can” or melted rock face with small caverns and bright orange, yellow, and white striations.

Over time, the deposits built up into a dome-like structure across the Jemez River—partially damming it.  It was easy access from the roadside and it was fun seeing so many people frolicking around this unusual structure!

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June, 2025;  Pre-trip before meeting the Chris Baird group in southwest Colorado.