We started at the foot of the dragon! Located on a rocky spur at the country’s southernmost tip, Dubrovnik is renowned for its medieval walls and historic monuments.
In the past, Dubrovnik was an independent city-state (1358-1808) that rivaled Venice. It was also a fortress city that served as the base for a fleet of ships that carried trade between much of Europe and the Middle East. This period endowed it with the wealth of historic architecture that we can appreciate today.
Dubrovnik Old Town
๐๐๐ฏ๐ฟ๐ผ๐๐ป๐ถ๐ธ’๐ ๐ข๐น๐ฑ ๐ง๐ผ๐๐ป is Croatia’s crowning jewel. We walked it from end to end, stopping in historic buildings and churches, restaurants and shops.
Some, like the ๐ฝ๐๐ง๐ค๐ฆ๐ช๐ ๐จ๐ฉ๐ฎ๐ก๐ ๐ฟ๐ช๐๐ง๐ค๐ซ๐ฃ๐๐ ๐พ๐๐ฉ๐๐๐๐ง๐๐ก, holds a renowned array of interior artworks.
Unfortunately, much of this architecture was heavily damaged during the breakup of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s. We saw picturesโฆ.the damage to the historic Old Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Center) by Serbian bombs was heavy.
Our guide, Martina, lived through it between the ages of 10-14. Fortunately, the city has regained much of its former splendor with the help of UNESCO and other donations, although restoration is still ongoing.
One night we walked along a picturesque promenade right on the edge of the Adriatic. We ended up at a Cave Barโฆ.which was truly a bar built within a natural cave, with stalactites and all! This city seems to have it all!!!
Homeland War Museum
A cable car took us to the ๐๐ค๐ข๐๐ก๐๐ฃ๐ ๐๐๐ง ๐๐ช๐จ๐๐ช๐ข in the fortress on Srd Mountain. This was a painfully relevant setting for our conversation with a war survivorโฆ. because so many violent attacks and casualties happened here. The museum was also holding the exhibition “Dubrovnik During the Homeland Wars.”
Balkan War Survivor, Mara Knezevic spoke with us about how Dubrovnik was battered during its brutal siege, and about how the grudges from that war still linger today. The Balkan wars in Croatia were fought between Croat forces loyal to the Croatian government (which sought independence from Yugoslavia) and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People’s Army, which vehemently opposed the succession.
There was a multi-year siege (1991-95) with bombings, and ground combat (by ordinary citizens). Croatia was the victor but at an enormous cost ($37 billion in damage and tens of thousands of people either displaced or killed. Half of the population sought asylum in Bosnia and Herzegovina, leaving Croatia with a broken and dwindling populace. Today, the International Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia still works to resolve war crimes and assist victims.
On a happier note, ๐ฝ๐ช๐ฏ๐ ๐ฝ๐๐ง is tucked in the old town wallsโฆ. It is literally a hole-in-the-wall bar that sits on the edge of the cliff. It is hard to find, but what an amazing view. We watched kayakers, swimmers, and other boaters while enjoying our drinks.
We walked for about a mile on top of the castle walls to enjoy the views of the rooftops of Old Town and the blue Adriatic.
Our tour company always books our lodging in city centers. But because Dubrovnik is so busy dealing with tourists and cruise passengers, it is very difficult to lodge there.
We ended up at a swanky resort hotelโฆa disappointment but we were given a bus pass for the 10-minute ride into town. It was also located right on the Adriatic so we could hardly complain! Hard to believe today, but the hotel served as a refugee center for four years during the Balkan wars
๐๐๐ฏ๐ฟ๐ผ๐๐ป๐ถk is often called the “Pearl of the Adriatic” and is considered one of the worldโs most magnificent walled cities. There is a real sense of awe walking on the limestone streets that carry so much history. It was a great visit, but we do have to concede that walking so long on those cobblestones begins to get to these senior feet!!!
September, 2021, Traveling with Overseas Adventure Travel