Nuku Hiva 🏝️🏝️


Nuku Hiva is the largest island in the archipelago of the Marquesas Islands.  The Marquesas archipelago, volcanic in origin,  consists of 12 main islands, of which six are inhabited.  Nuku Hiva is the capital of the Marquesas Islands, one of the most untouched archipelagos on our planet. 

Nuku Hiva is rugged and mountainous, with steep cliffs and thick forests. This island is a more remote and less-touristed experience compared to our other French Polynesia destinations. (We are  now @870 miles from Tahiti!). This would be a fascinating destination for any traveler interested in off-the-beaten-path experiences and untouched natural beauty! 

It seems hat this is the place on our planet where a traveler can be as far from the crowds as humanly possible! The island’s landscape is characterized by towering volcanic peaks, lush valleys, and steep, jagged cliffs that plunge into the Pacific Ocean.

The islands were likely settled by Polynesians around 2,000 years ago, making them one of the most remote island groups in the world to be colonized by humans. European contact began in the late 16th century with Spanish explorers, followed by visits from British and French explorers in the 18th century. France eventually annexed the Marquesas Islands in the 19th century.

Our greeting to the island after offloading from the ship’s tender:

Our activity today was a “4×4” tour of portions of the island. This meant that we sat in the backs of pickup trucks as we were driven through the rugged, diverse, dramatic, and picturesque terrain. It took a lot of pickup trucks! It’s really quite amazing that an island this remote has so many!

Our first stop was the Cathedral of Notre Dame, located in the main town of Taiohae. This historic site has beautiful architecture, and our local guide explained the interior and the island’s religious history.

The church’s design is a blend of traditional Polynesian and European architectural styles. The façade of the church is modest yet striking, with a simple bell tower and a cross, conveying a sense of reverence and humility.

These intricate carvings, crafted by local artisans, adorn the church’s interiors and depict various religious and cultural motifs that blend Christian themes with Marquesan traditions. The islands are known for their intricate wood carvings, tattoos, and vibrant dances. Each of these stations of the cross were carved from one piece of wood.

These intricate carvings are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship and deep symbolic meanings. They often depict deities, ancestral figures, and elements of nature central to Marquesan mythology and spiritual beliefs while being integrated with the Catholic Religion.  
 

The Marquesan culture is rich and deeply rooted in tradition. This cultural center was built to display and bring back the culture and language of the ancestors, much of which was destroyed by Western visitors. We enjoyed some traditional island treats here as our guide provided background information.

The tikis of the Marquesas Islands are iconic stone or wooden carvings that hold significant cultural and spiritual importance. These tikis are typically anthropomorphic figures, representing deities, ancestral spirits, or mythological beings. The carvings are characterized by their distinct features, such as large heads, pronounced facial expressions, and robust, stylized bodies. Each tiki is unique.

This area is a combination of the old and the new.
The giant stone tiki statues are traditional Polynesian sculptures often associated with religious and cultural practices. This 40-foot-tall Tiki Tuhiva sculpture stands over Taiohae.

The Marquesas have gained international recognition due to the presence of several famous figures:

1. French painter Paul Gauguin spent the last years of his life on Hiva Oa, another of the Marquesas Islands, where he created some of his most renowned works. The island’s landscapes and local culture influenced his artistic works. He was buried there upon his death in 1903.

Our Enrichment Speaker, James Grant-Peterkin, gave an excellent overview of Paul Gauguin’s “Troubled Life.”

2. Herman Melville, the renowned American author, is connected to the Marquesas Islands through his experiences as a sailor. Melville was a crew member of a whaling ship which visited the Marquesas Islands. 

Melville famously deserted the ship and lived among the Typee people on the island of Nuku Hiva. His famous novel “Typee: A Peep at Polynesian Life,” was published in 1846,   While his portrayal of the Marquesas in “Typee” has been debated for its accuracy and romanticized elements, Melville’s time among the Typee people inspired much of his future writing, including  “Moby Dick.”

3. Robert Louis Stevenson, the Scottish novelist and poet, spent some time in Hatihe’u, a village located on Nuku Hiva.  Stevenson traveled to the South Pacific seeking a healthier climate, as he suffered from poor health. Arriving in 1888 and residing in Taipivai Valley, he documented his experiences in his book “In the South Seas,”.  It provided a vivid descriptions of the landscape, people, and culture of the Marquises.

After our tour, we walked around the small town, found a bite to eat, and returned to the ship. There is limited accessibility on this island and the small population is spread over many small villages. Many areas are accessible only by foot or by boat, maintaining the island’s pristine natural environment. While there are essential services and amenities in Taiohae, the overall infrastructure is less developed compared to more urbanized regions. But that is all part of its charm, attracting visitors seeking natural beauty, and a connection to Marquesan culture. And that is just what we got!

Interesting Sighting!!

This is another way to get around the Marqueses! The Aranui 5, half cargo ship and half cruise ship calls on each of the six inhabited islands! 

2/2024