As I gazed from our Tahitian hotel balcony toward the silhouette of Moorea, a familiar melody drifted through my mind: Bali Ha’i, from one of my favorite musicals, South Pacific. It’s no wonder. Moorea—long believed to have inspired the mythical Bali Ha’i in James Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific—is often described as one of the most breathtakingly beautiful islands in all of French Polynesia. Its emerald peaks, misty ridges, and shimmering lagoons feel almost too magical to be real.

As we start our day, we realize that February is Tahiti’s hottest month….it is already 82 at 8:00am! We looked out our window and got a first sighting of our travel mate Rick!!

Taking a dip in this pool at The Hilton seemed to be the first activity!! We found Rick and Carol there, and we enjoyed visiting with a couple from Sun Valley, Idaho.

Our Hilton Resort is less than a 30-minute walk to the city center of Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. We found a small cafe where we enjoyed breakfast sandwiches. Here is Rick enjoying his “Tahitian Omelette “!

Along Our Walk…….

We hope to learn more about how the Polynesians found their way to these remote islands in boats like this double hulled canoe!

This is a memorial site for the nuclear testing carried out in French Polynesia over 30 years between 1966 and 1996.

These tests had significant environmental and health impacts on the local population and ecosystems, leading to widespread protests and calls for compensation and recognition of the harm caused. France officially ended nuclear testing in the region in 1996 following international pressure and local opposition. However, the legacy of these tests continues to be a contentious issue in French Polynesia.

Bobby Holcomb was an American artist and musician who lived in Tahiti in the 1970s and became known for his paintings, music, environmental and cultural contributions to the island. He was deeply influenced by Polynesian culture and incorporated its themes into his works. He passed in 1991, but his legacy continues to be celebrated in Tahiti.

“Autonomie Tahiti” refers to the movement for greater autonomy, or even independence, for French Polynesia. French Polynesia is an overseas collectivity of France, but there has been a longstanding debate and desire among some residents for increased self-governance or even full independence.

Papeete boasts a bustling market that seems to embody the rich tapestry of Polynesian culture…..….kind of a sensory delight, alive with the aromas of tropical fruits, freshly caught seafood, and fragrant flowers. Stalls sell traditional handicrafts, intricately woven baskets, and vibrant pareos (like a sarong), etc. and entice visitors with their authentic Tahitian craftsmanship. It was very early in our trip though….so no purchases!

We are now off to a nap before starting our first official tour this afternoon! We are trying to get into the current time zone quickly!! (5 hours behind EST.)

Well, our afternoon tour got off to a rough start! We were picked up for our scheduled tour by a man in a van! Right away, he said it was a 4 hr tour (but we had paid for 6 hours!) He hardly talked ( funny for a tour guide!) so we asked him a few questions. How did the Polynesians find their way to Tahiti? “In a boat”, he answers. From where? “England”, but when further questioned, from “France, Cologne specifically”!! OMG!!!

As Joan is wanting to tear her hair out, his phone rings. It turns out, he picked up the wrong people! YEA!!!! Our real guide was back at the hotel waiting for us! Thank heavens, because Rick was afraid that too much more time with this man would have given Joan a heart attack! So, all we could do was laugh!

So….this is our real tour guide….Antoinette! She was full of information and enthusiastically shared much about her beloved Tahitian island. (We think it was mostly fact with a little bit of bias!)

Tahiti is composed of two main parts: Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti.

–—Tahiti Nui is the larger of the two parts and comprises the island’s western portion. It is characterized by lush valleys, towering mountains, and vibrant coastal villages.

—-Tahiti Iti, meaning “small Tahiti,” is the smaller, southeastern portion of the island. It is known for its rugged coastline, secluded beaches, and surfing. Tahiti Iti is less developed and more sparsely populated than Tahiti Nui.

With Antoinette, we will be exploring Tahiti Nui. What we quickly learn is that the interior of the island of Tahiti is largely untouched and pristine….a haven for hikers and adventure seekers….but only with a guide! There are no public roads…just dense vegetation, valleys, a mountain and some historical sites like ancient temples and archaeological remains.

Our tour today will be driving the Ring road, a scenic coastal highway that circles the entire island. The exception to that is today……because a huge tropical cyclone several weeks back took out a portion of the road! So we will tour about two-thirds of the road!

Some of Our Stops

Marae Arahurahu

Ancient ceremonial grounds in French Polynesia are called marae. These were sacred places where rituals, ceremonies, and religious practices took place in traditional Polynesian society. Maraes were typically constructed with stone platforms and held great cultural and spiritual importance to the Tahitian people.

We visited Marae Arahurahu

Polynesian myth describes Tiki as the original man, who was also a god. Tiki created humans and all life in his image. Carvings of the humanoid creature became representative of Tiki and emblematic of the spiritual fabric of Polynesia. Differing from the original intent of the Tiki, Americans interpreted Tiki culture to be free and fun-loving (Tiki bars and grass skirts!) rather than the religious icon!

Marae Arahurahu was traditionally a place of worship, ceremony, and social gathering for the Tahitian people. It served as a center for religious rituals, community meetings, and important cultural events. It played a vital role in maintaining social order, transmitting cultural traditions, and connecting people to their spiritual beliefs.

Marae Arahurahu includes stone platforms, upright stones, and other structures characteristic of traditional Polynesian marae.

Our guide, Antoinette, also shared info on some local flora. This is the inside of the Noni fruit.

Polynesian healers have used Noni fruits for thousands of years to help treat various health problems such as diabetes, high blood pressure, aches, pains, burns, arthritis, inflammation, tumors, etc.

Antoinette! pointed out that this plant produces the headpieces worn by Tahitian women. She used her fingernail to make the thin fronds.

Faarumai Waterfalls

This is a stunning waterfall, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. It is located not far off the busy ring road around Tahiti, and provides a respite of beauty and tranquility. Swimming at the base looks inviting ….but it is very shallow.

Point Venus

Point Venus is the location of the encounter between Europeans and Polynesians. Located at the northernmost point of the island and surrounded by a black-sand beach, this area is the historic landing site of many famous explorers. Point Venus was the favorite mooring spot for Captain James Cook, the renowned British explorer. He observed the transit of Venus across the sun in 1769 at this point. This observation was crucial for determining the size of the solar system.

Compared to his accomplishments, this memorial (one of MANY across the world) seems way too understated and unmaintained!

The arrival of missionaries in Tahiti played a significant role in the history and cultural transformation of the island. Although European explorers first encountered Tahiti in the early 18th century, it was not until the late 1700s that Christian missionaries began arriving. English missionaries spread Christianity and converted the Tahitian people to Protestantism; French missionaries to Catholicism. Tahitians initially resisted abandoning their traditional religious beliefs and practices (like those we saw earlier at Marae Arahurahu.)

This marker lists names of some of the missionaries.

However, over time, Tahitians began to embrace Christianity, leading to a gradual transformation of Tahitian society. The influence of missionaries extended beyond religion and had profound effects on Tahitian culture and society. Western education, literacy, new laws, forms of governance and new agricultural techniques were introduced….all leading to conflicts and tensions in Tahitian society. It was sad to learn how this culture was nearly obliterated; but nice to hear about the revivals today of language and cultural traditions. On the other hand, we learned later how exuberantly the Tahitians now embrace their new religions, and how the missionaries actually had positive affects by introducing medicines.

Point Venus Lighthouse

At Point Venus, this prominent lighthouse stands as a beacon for ships navigating the waters around Tahiti. Surrounded by a beach of black sand, it is the northernmost point of Tahiti.

This lighthouse remains the only one in Tahiti. During the Second World War, citizens painted coconut trees on their lighthouses to hide them and prevent the Japanese fleet from landing in Tahiti!

This plaque quotes Robert Louis Stevenson in 1866. The Stevenson family were the noted lighthouse builders around the Scottish coasts, and his father, Thomas Stevenson, helped build this lighthouse.

The Bounty before the Mutiny!

In 1787, the British Royal Navy ship HMS Bounty (commanded by Lieutenant William Bligh) was sent on a mission to transport breadfruit plants from Tahiti to the Caribbean, where they would be cultivated as a cheap source of food for slaves. This stone commemorates their 1788 stop in Tahiti.

In 1789, Fletcher Christian led the notorious mutiny, one of the most well-known mutinies ever in the British Royal Navy. The mutineers set Captain Bligh and eighteen loyalists adrift in the ship’s launch, then returned to Tahiti. However, fearing the arrival of a Royal Navy ship and the consequences of their mutiny, Christian and eight of the mutineers sailed the Bounty to Pitcairn Island.

Point Venus is also home to this black sand beach…a popular spot for locals to play. The black sand beaches are formed from volcanic minerals…the volcanic eruptions and subsequent cooling and erosion of lava have resulted in the formation of fine black sand.

Arahoho Blowhole

There was nothing too exciting about this lava tunnel, but the vistas were beautiful and it was mesmerizing to watch the sea around the blow hole ebb and flow before shooting out powerful blasts. The noise and impact from the back-pressure of the ocean through the blowhole was somewhat startling though!

The West Coast and Tahiti Iti

Our guide the next day was Tracy who gave us more insight into the Tahitian people. With Tracy, we explored the west coast of Tahiti Nui, as well as Tahiti Iti (the smaller and more authentic island of Tahiti.) Some villages on Tahiti Iti have little connection to the rest of the island, so they have not seen the fast pace of change as the rest of the island.

Tahiti Iti is characterized by lush tropical vegetation, volcanic peaks, dramatic coastal cliffs…..but also by small-scale farming.

They grow crops such as taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, coconuts, and tropical fruits like papayas and pineapples and raise raise livestock such as chickens, pigs, and goats for subsistence purposes.

This is not what we expected to see in Tahiti!!

Religion in Tahiti

Since it was Sunday…the tour started with visits to several churches. Prior to European contact, Tahitian religion was predominantly animistic, with beliefs centered around the worship of various gods and spirits tied to nature, such as gods of the sea, land, and sky. Today, Christianity, particularly Protestantism and Catholicism, remain the dominant religion (smaller religious groups LDS and Seventh-Day Adventist are also there.) There is also a growing movement among some Tahitians to revive and preserve traditional Tahitian beliefs and practices as a way of reconnecting with their cultural heritage.

Église Saint-François-Xavier de Paea…..we stopped by this church to get a glimpse of its distinctive architectural style, which features traditional Polynesian elements blended with European influences. The church has a rich history that dates back to the early days of Catholic missionary activity in French Polynesia. Our guide explained how the churches are actively involved in community outreach and social service initiatives, providing support and assistance to those in need in the local community. They also serves as a gathering place for cultural events, celebrations, and festivals.

Listening to Polynesian singing in this Protestant church was really a joy. The harmonious singing was almost angelic in nature.

The ladies wore fancy dresses and hats, and the congregation was actively involved in singing.

Next to the church was another one of the beautiful sand beaches.

The Vaipahi Gardens

Abundant in natural beauty, these gardens include archaeological relics and legendary traditions…..this is really a magnificent park. Spread out over 2.5 acres on a mountainside, there are ponds, a waterfall, and walking paths.

The waterfall, about 20 meters high, called Vaipahi, meanders down the mountain and between different specimens of the local flora and ponds and springs of clear waters gushing from Earth.

Teahupo’o

Surfing is deeply ingrained in Tahitian culture, and Teahupo’o holds special significance for local surfers. Teahupo’o is a world-renowned surf break…..and the site of the upcoming 2024 Summer Olympics. A surf break means that the waves break over a submerged coral reef rather than a sandy shoreline. The shallow reef amplifies the power and speed of the waves, resulting in hollow “barrels” that are sought after by experienced surfers. Teahupo’o creates some of the thickest and most challenging barrels in the world.

We were fortunate enough to go out to the wave …..but also fortunate that the time of year and time of day made for only very mild waves! Teahupo’o is known for producing some of the largest and most powerful waves in the world, especially during the southern hemisphere’s winter months (May to October). Surfers from around the globe flock to Teahupo’o to test their skills and courage. The reef can be treacherous, and the waves are extremely powerful, making it a destination only for very skilled surfers.

The name “Teahupo’o” roughly translates to “place of skulls” or “sever the head” in Tahitian. The name reflects the power and intensity of the waves at this surf break! This is what the waves should look like during the Olympics this summer!!

The wave is often two to three meters high, reaching up to seven meters.

Grotte Vaipoiri

The last stop of the day was to show us how Tahitians spend their free time! We have already learned that money is not that important…they grow or catch their food and work to get just enough to get by. This grotto is one of the free ways they spend time…cooling off in the refreshing waters of the cave.

Our Last Stops in Papeete

Before embarking on our cruise ship, we stopped at the history and archeological museum, The Museum of Tahiti and the Islands. Modern projection techniques and an audio guide explained the history of settlement, Polynesia’s cultures, the islands’ formation, the Polynesian migration, etc…….providing a very pleasurable museum experience.

Many fascinating artifacts are displayed and explained, all within a modern and minimalistic design. It helped to wrap an overview around the bits and pieces of information we had been taking in over the previous three-day period.

The museum touches on the impact of colonialism, environmental change, and globalization on Tahitian society. We certainly walked away with a greater appreciation for the beauty, resilience, and cultural richness of Tahiti and its people and the importance of preserving indigenous cultures.

Musee de la perle Wan

The Musée de la Perle Wan Museum celebrates the artistry, history, and cultural significance of pearls, with a particular focus on the exquisite Wan Pearl.

The Wan Pearl, originating from Zhuji, China, holds a special place in the hearts of many Tahitians due to its beauty and rarity.

The museum provided a comprehensive guide to the legends of pearls and how they are grafted. It also had a collection of some of the world’s most beautiful pearls.