Pizzo is one of those quaint seaside towns….tiny streets, a hodgepodge of red rooftops, ancient buildings, an abundance of ice cream parlors, and sweeping blue sea views. The town is all-charm with peeling pink and yellow painted walls, cobbled streets, and a scooter parked on almost every corner!

This castle was built by Ferdinand I of Aragon in the 15th century, but its name comes from Gioacchino Murat. He was the King of Naples and was executed by firing squad in the castle’s main hall in 1815. He was the brother-in-law of Napoleon…and had apparently betrayed him in some way!

Tartufo

We were privileged to enjoy the famous ice cream treat of Pizzo….the tartufo.

The tartufo is a popular Italian dessert with a chocolate shell filled with ice cream and cocoa powder. While the exact origins of the tartufo are debated, it is widely believed to have been created in Pizzo. According to the legend, a local gelato maker (1950s) was inspired by the shape of the black truffle mushrooms in the surrounding region. He recreated the truffle’s appearance in a frozen dessert, hence the name “tartufo,” which means truffle in Italian. We were taught just how to do it ourselves!

Chiesetta di Piedigrotta

The Chiesetta di Piedigrotta is an amazing church carved into the rocks and full of beautiful stone statues. Legend tells of a vessel caught in a violent storm during the 17th century. The captain and his crew did everything they could to steer it, but all they could do was gather below deck and pray before a painting of the Virgin of Piedigrotta. The sailors promised they would build a church in her honor if she saved their lives. A few hours later, the ship sank, but the crew made it safely to a beach near Pizzo. 

Next to them was a bell and the painting of the Virgin they had prayed to, which they interpreted as a sign they had to keep their promise. They placed the painting in a small cave dug into the tufa.

In the 19th century, a local shopkeeper, Angelo Barone devoted himself to the cave and built a larger church there. He carved stone figures representing Christ and the saints into the stones. He worked there all his life, and his son took over when he died. Then the statues remained at the mercy of time and vandals. In the 1960s, a descendant of Angelo Barone visited the area. He was so struck by the then-deteriorated church that he restored it. He also added new sculptures, including a bas-relief of Pope John XXIII in front of John Kennedy.

This was a special sight to visit, particularly because it has been developed by one family without the involvement of the official church.