Civita is a hilltop town of well-preserved stone houses at the edge of Pollino National Park. It occupies a bluff of volcanic rock on the slopes of Mount Pollino. Civita became an enclave for Albanian refugees fleeing a 15th-century Ottoman invasion. Like more than 30 other villages in Calabria with Albanian roots, Civita has retained this heritage ever since, with Italo-Albanians now recognized as an ethnic minority in Italy. Residents still speak Arbëresh and schools teach in both Italian and Arbëresh.
We stayed in a lovely B&B built by the Albanian ancestors of the owner. He shared some history of family migration to Italy, dating back several centuries. The first wave occurred during the 15th century when the Ottoman Empire expanded into the Balkans, leading to the exodus of many Albanians seeking refuge from Ottoman rule.
Civita maintains its original layout, with neighborhoods of old two-story stone houses with large fireplaces situated along narrow lanes. Some of the old-style chimneys survive, despite the fact that many homes have been replaced with modern heating systems. Apparently, Albanians always liked their hearth with a fancy, individually designed chimney. No two look alike, each a piece of art created by a master mason. And….the chimneys weren’t always built in proportion with the house because the chimney size represented family status!
Another unique architectural style is a house that resembles a human face. They are called Kodra Houses, named after an Albanian painter who depicted them in his work. Two small windows, one on each side of the smoke vent, look like eyes and a nose. The mouth is the wide entrance door or, sometimes, a window.
A bust of the Albanian hero, Skanderbeg, and a brightly colored mural of the hero with a sword raised are both in the main square of the village.
Civita is set in stunning natural surroundings. These are scenes from the Belvedere at our B&B.
Mamma Mia, we really took advantage of the beauty!!! We drove to Italy’s largest National Park, UNESCO-protected Pollino National Park (the second largest national park in Europe) for a two-mile hike. The mountain’s 7375-foot peak punctuates the amazingly scenic landscape, limestone shaped over the centuries by nature, forming canyons and grottoes.
Our idyllic walk had all the elements of heaven!! Gradual elevation, happy birds singing away, tons of wildflowers in bloom, the sun just perfectly penetrating the trees, an amazingly beautiful forest, and a panoramic point overlooking a valley of Calabrian beauty. Casual hikes don’t get better than this! The only downside….it rained the night before so we came back with some pretty muddy boots!
Albanian Entertainment
For dinner one evening, we enjoyed a singer, Marco, who explained and sang traditional Albanian songs. We also discovered the singing talent of our trip leader Dario, who we learned had been a singer in a band at one point in his life!