Palermo is the capital, a port city, and a gateway to the rest of Sicily. It lies on Sicily’s northwestern coast at the head of the Bay of Palermo. This capital city is noted for its history, culture, architecture, and religions, which stretch back millennia (the city is over 2,700 years old). Palermo is a mix of fascinating influences thanks to its location at the crossroads of the Mediterranean and its many occupiers. Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Spanish, and French are among those who came, conquered, and left their mark.
We spent three nights in Palermo, enough time for a decent overview. It is a complicated labyrinth of big streets and narrow alleys. Today, the ancient and the modern worlds stand side by side; graceful palazzos and villas from a bygone time contrast dramatically with modern flats and apartments.
And it did not take long for the girls to start having fun!! We were into the Aperol spritz and brioche gelato options early on!
Walking Tour
We had a wonderful City Guide, Daniela Mendola, who took us on a 2.5-mile hike to reveal the city’s cacophony of architectural styles.
Palermo is filled with gorgeous architecture, most of which was built in the Arab-Norman style (since Palermo was the capital of Sicily under both the Arabs and the Normans). The era of Norman rule (1072–1194) was Palermo’s golden age, when Greeks, Arabs, Jews, and Normans worked together with singular harmony to create a cosmopolitan culture of remarkable vitality. The Norman rule of Sicily only lasted a century, leaving a rich legacy of law, culture, and architecture. Today, the city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its architectural beauty.
There was also a strong Baroque influence from the 17th and 18th centuries. And reconstruction after the WW II bombings added modern elements to the mix.
Teatro Massimo: We took a 30-minute tour of the Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele (1897), the largest opera house in Italy and the third largest in Europe. It is known for its architectural grandeur and historical significance… a symbol of the Art Nouveau period, when Palermo was so beautiful and elegant that it attracted and hosted the most sought-after European courts.
Its facade is adorned with impressive Corinthian columns, statues, and ornate decorations.
The interior of the Teatro Massimo is equally magnificent. It boasts a richly decorated ceiling, elegant balconies, and plush velvet seating.
Quattro Canti: The heart of Palermo is known as the Quattro Canti. It is also known as the ‘Theatre of the Sun’ because at any time of day, the sun shines on one of the four corners, dividing the city into quadrants. This baroque piazza, built in the early 1600s, is octagonal and has four facades. Each beautiful corner is swathed in sculptural decoration with the four seasons, the four Spanish kings of Sicily, and the four patron saints of Sicily.
Piazza Pretoria: This square is just steps from the Quattro Canti and is more commonly known as the ‘square of shame’ because of the nude statues perched around the edge of the elaborate fountain. This monumental fountain was built in Florence but transferred to Palermo in 1574. The highly decorated statues depict ancient Greek gods, including Zeus, Poseidon, and Apollo, alongside nymphs, animals, and other mythological figures.
Palermo Cathedral: The 12th-century cathedral houses royal tombs. Originally constructed in 1185, the Cathedral has been added to, restored, and renovated over the years in line with the style of the times and the aesthetics of those in charge. Hundreds of years of change make its style unique, from Moorish to Catalan Gothic and lots in between.
We did not go in….some renovation going on, so instead were treated to some of these tasty cannolis as we took a break from walking!!
The Church of San Cataldo (@1154), a masterpiece of austere Norman style, is topped with three red domes.
May 23 Celebration: We happened to be in Palermo on May 23, the day in 1992 when a significant event occurred. This date marked a turning point in the fight against organized crime in Sicily…. the day when a prominent anti-Mafia judge, his wife, and three bodyguards tragically lost their lives in a bomb attack.
Giovanni Falcone was an Italian magistrate who dedicated his career to fighting organized crime. He was crucial in prosecuting numerous Mafia members, exposing their criminal activities, and undermining their power. This made him a target of Cosa Nostra and ultimately led to his assassination. Thirty-nine days later, another judge, Paulo Borsellino, was assassinated.
Our guide, Dario, gave each of us a two-euro coin commemorating the two judges.
Their legacy as courageous and determined anti-Mafia prosecutors endures to this day and is celebrated on May 23. While it is not an official holiday or celebration, the people of Palermo and Sicily mark this date as a day of remembrance and reflection on the fight against organized crime. We saw many school groups in town to be part of the celebration.
Since the early 2000s, an Anti-Mafia movement has developed. The movement is fueled by increasing public outrage over high-profile assassinations, corruption, and the Mafia’s stranglehold on various aspects of society (politics, business, and everyday life). Activists and courageous individuals within law enforcement/judiciary play significant roles in challenging the Mafia’s influence and bringing their criminal activities to light. They encourage businesses to refuse to pay protection money (pizzo) to the Mafia and provide support/resources for those who resist. It remains an ongoing struggle, requiring sustained efforts from law enforcement and society to ensure a Mafia-free future for Palermo.
Porta Nuova: The monumental city gate is the entrance to the Cassaro, the city’s oldest street, and is hard to miss because it’s in the center of the tourist zone.
Market Eats!! There’s just something about markets! The energy is infectious, the smells mouthwatering, and the colors delightful. Visiting a market seems to show an authentic slice of life. Palermo is famous for its historic outdoor street markets, which encompass the traditions of the Sicilian people. Our walking tour concluded at the Capo Market. It was loud and busy, selling everything from fish to odds and ends.
Here we sat on a small patio and enjoyed some Sicilian specialties:
- Arancini: small rice balls stuffed with a savory filling, coated in bread crumbs, and fried.
- Cannoli: Italian pastry in the form of a hard, tubular shell stuffed with sweetened ricotta cheese
- Sfincione: This is a pizza-like bread… tomato sauce, oregano, and abundant caciocavallo cheese on a very soft and tasty dough.
- Panelle (fritters with chickpea flour)
- Potato croquettes, known as crocche
APE Tour
After our walking tour, we had another way to get to know Palermo… an APE Tour! Ape means “bee” in Italian, and we buzzed along the streets of Palermo aboard these motorized three-wheeled vehicles. Truthfully, there were some hair-raising moments as our driver, confident in his skills, veered in and around pedestrians, cars, other apes, corners, and curves. It did not help that my dear friend (but anxiety-filled) Jacki was clenching her fists tightly the entire trip!
As our guide shared, rules in Sicily are suggestions… and there is a jungle of careless drivers out there!
Sicilian Puppets: Opera dei Pupi
Palermo has a unique, centuries-old puppet-master tradition, and we were fortunate to meet Vincenzo and Nicola Argento at Teatro Argento. They are members of one of the families that have kept the puppet tradition alive for five generations. Making this tradition a worldwide icon of art.
These are handmade marionettes—three feet tall and weighing 20+ pounds—and unique to the city’s puppetry tradition. The puppets are intricately structured and painted wood, in elaborate metal armor with swords and shields, and made to withstand heavy fighting! Operated by master puppeteers from above the stage, the puppets have such sophisticated mechanical construction that one puppet can slice off another’s head in one swoop!
Sicilian puppetry themes focus on heroic knights overcoming a range of threats, including invaders, reflecting the island’s long history of conflict and conquest. Puppet Theaters of Palermo were declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Tradition in 2008. We had a private introductory visit to the theater and returned later that evening for a full, very enjoyable performance.
Controversial Topic: The Sicilian Mafia (aka Cosa Nostra)
We met Gino Felicetti and Angelo Provenzano, two men who shared an overview of the Mafia’s history and inner workings—from its 19th-century roots, born of cynicism and distrust of public institutions, to its rise and spread to America during World War II. The mafia continues to cast a shadow over Sicilian business, politics, the criminal justice system, and day-to-day life today.
These two men from Corleone are intimately familiar with the Mafia. One, Gino, was forced to flee Sicily as a child after a family member was murdered by members of the organization.
The other, Angelo, is the son of a former crime boss, the ‘boss of the bosses!’ He shared stories of the sheltered childhood that he and his brother had. Since they were constantly on the run from the police, media, and rival mafiosi, he never went to school or made friends. He did not, however, know what his father did for a living, so he looked up to him as a man who loved him and kept him safe.
This presentation went beyond the headlines, myths, and legends about the mafia. It was deeply personal from two people who knew the inner workings.
As a supplement to our talk, Gino posted this excellent summary on YouTube.
As our guidebook stated….”While this experience will reveal ugly truths about Sicilian history and culture, it offers a personal perspective that no newspaper or history book can provide. No adventure in Sicily would be complete without understanding the Mafia’s role in society.”
The fight against Italy’s organized crime remains an ongoing struggle, requiring sustained efforts to ensure a Mafia-free future. While significant progress has been made, the organization still works in smaller gangs to exert influence. Today’s mafia activities encompass a wide range of illegal endeavors: drug trafficking, extortion, money laundering, and infiltration into legitimate businesses.
As we walked through the city, we noticed many women carrying rose stems. We finally learned it was the feast day of Saint Rita of Cascia. Pope Leo XIII canonized Rita on 24 May 1900 and bestowed the title of Patroness of Impossible Causes, or the patroness of abused wives and heartbroken women. While only 25% of Italians attend church regularly, we did notice large celebrations for patron saints. Palermo has four patron saints.
We really enjoyed Palermo…but there is so much more to warrant a return trip! The Capuchin catacombs, Palentine Chapel….and lots more good food!!