Mazara del Vallo is known for its rich multicultural heritage, shaped by centuries of influences from various civilizations. The city’s location on the western coast of Sicily made it a strategic point for trade and cultural exchange throughout history. The largest fishing fleet in Italy, a world-famous Dancing Satyr netted from the sea, a labyrinthine North African Kasbah…..we found it all in this in the UNESCO-protected city.
Of Phoenician origin (5-6th century BC), the town was later colonized by Greeks, then fell to the Carthaginians in 409 BC and subsequently to the Romans, Saracens, and Normans. Wow! The parade of dominations never ends in Sicily! Today, Mazara is also one of the Mediterranean’s most important and well-known fishing ports, the base for a fleet of around 300 large deep-sea fishing boats and over 3,000 crew members.
Walking the Kasbah Quarter
Sicilians and Arabs, Muslims and Christians…a union of cultures and traditions co-exist and work in this area once enclosed by Norman walls. Tunisian immigration to Sicily began in the late 70s and today totals about 3.000 Tunisians and Maghreb Arabs. They are mainly employed in the fishing industry.
The Kasbah is a historic neighborhood with narrow, winding streets and a strong Arabic influence. Walking through medieval neighborhoods is like a maze! Buildings feature whitewashed walls, intricate doorways, and wrought-iron balconies. The narrow streets often lead to unexpected squares, hidden courtyards, and picturesque corners. We could see lots of artwork….commissioned by a former mayor, an artist himself, who found this a way to beautify his city.
The Cathedral of Santissimo Salvatore is a beautiful church with fabulous frescoes.
And yes….another ABC!!! Depending on one’s interpretation, it is either Another Beautiful Church or Another Bloody Church!!! In either case (I am with the former!)…this it is Chiesa di San Francesco. This church, once an 11th century Arab- Norman style, was changed in 1680 to a Sicilian Baroque style.
Learning and Discovery: Captain Ciccio’s Amazing Discovery
The Kasbah is home to Museum of the Dancing Satyr, one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Sicily. The statue, known as the Dancing Satyr, is a masterpiece of ancient Greek sculpture dating back to the Hellenistic period, around the 3rd century BCE. It is a representation of a satyr, a mythological creature associated with Dionysus, the Greek god of wine and revelry.
The statue depicting a youthful satyr caught in mid-dance is made of bronze and stands at around two meters (six and a half feet) tall. It is a rare and significant find, as bronze sculptures from ancient Greece are relatively scarce due to widespread recycling of bronze during later periods.
The statue was found by the fishermen Francesco Adragna, AKA Captain Ciccio, in the sea near Mazara in 1998. We had the pleasure of meeting Captain Ciccio and enjoying the explanation of his findings, as interpreted by our guide Dario!
This is the New York Times article about this amazing finding. He became a very popular celebrity after this find! The discovery has added to the cultural heritage of Mazara del Vallo and shed light on the city’s ancient connections to Greek civilization.
Garibaldi Theater
Another pleasant surprise we had was this restored theater, Teatro Garibaldi. The theatre was stunningly crafted using planks from wooden fishing boats. Originally built in 1849, it was refurbished in 2006.
We were fortunate to have an impromptu performance by Antonio! He had a great voice and….. it was nice to hear That’s Amore from an Italian other than Dean Martin!
A site we saw so often, all around Italy, was groups of men sitting around just talking or playing games. After speaking with them, we were asked to join them in a picture!
Home Hosted Lunch at Captain Ciccio’s
We broke into smaller groups for our Home Hosted lunch, and I was lucky enough to go to the home of Captain Adragna! His stepdaughter Lea was our interpreter since the family speaks very little English. While Mazara del Vallo has Phoenician origins, modern-day Sicilian cuisine owes much to the Arabs, who ruled Sicily from 827 to 1061. They prepared a delicious meal for us!!
We had a great conversation and ended the meal by providing gifts to the family. I had brought some baseball caps from Florida!
Free Time Activities!!
We had the rest of the day on our own…after Dario bought us some gelato at Mucho Gusto (which seems to be our sustenance as we travel the island!!)
Jackie, Pat, and I walked slowly back to the hotel, having a little fun along the Mediterranean Sea coast as we went (after picking up some money from the ATM!) Our hotel overlooks the Mediterranean…. a pretty cool location!
Marsala Salt Pans (Museo del Sale)
The Marsala Salt Pans in Trapani have been used for salt production since ancient times. The Phoenicians and Romans were among the early civilizations that recognized the area’s potential for salt extraction and the process still follows traditional methods today. Initially, seawater is pumped into the first ponds and gradually moves through the interconnected system. As the water evaporates, salt crystallizes and settles at the bottom of the ponds. Workers rake and collect the salt, forming small pyramids or mounds. The salt is then left to dry further before being harvested.
Below, we are learning about the tools used by Salt Flat workers.
The Salt Pans are significant for salt production and serve as crucial habitats for several bird species, especially during migration periods. Flamingos, herons, egrets, and numerous other bird species visit. Several of the salt pans have a pinkish color because of the microscopic shrimp they hold. The visiting flamingos fly in as white birds and out as coral colored after taking advantage of the salt pans!
Boat Ride to Mothya Island
We boarded a small boat for a 20-minute ride to the small island of Motya (Mozia). 2700 years ago, this was an important colony of Carthage (the Phoenician-founded city in North Africa.) The Carthaginians were crucial in the ancient history of Sicily…building, conquering, and losing settlements and generally fighting (though sometimes allied) with the Greek cities in Sicily.
We took a walking tour of the island and its ancient fortress along footpaths that led around the island’s shore and across the interior, passing excavated areas. Obviously, a great deal is still to be discovered here, and excavations are ongoing. Apparently, it is quite rare to see such extensive Carthaginian ruins in Italy, as we;; as much evidence of Phoenician culture. The Phoenicians built a causeway to the island, and although the road still exists, it is just below the water level today.
The Whitaker Museum houses artifacts, including pottery, jewelry, and inscriptions that attest to the Phoenician and Greek heritage of the city and give a good context to the ruins. The museum’s highlights include terracotta masks and funeral stele, some featuring stylized images of women in triangular skirts. The museum’s greatest treasure is a marble statue, the Youth of Mozia (‘Giovanetto di Mozia’), also known as the Charioteer. This is a Greek statue dating to the fifth century BC and a real masterpiece.
The smiling mask above is truly gruesome. It is small because it is made for a child about to be burned alive as a sacrifice to the Phoenician god. The child, the firstborn son, and his parents were not supposed to be or look unhappy, hence the mask.
Cooking Lesson with Chef Paolo Austero!
Wow, this was fun! We went to a local restaurant to learn how to make traditional Sicilian eggplant parmigiana and Sicily’s famous pesto alla Trapanese….a pesto combining almonds, cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, and olive oil. We divided into four groups, two doing the above dishes, one making the pasta, and the fourth making an almond parfait.
Then….add the bread from the baker…
And we have one delicious meal!!!
Our chef was extremely gracious and patient! He has received many accolades for his cooking and dreams of opening a small school with his wife Patrizia and sons Salvatore and Vincenzo. He wants to teach his students a cuisine that has human values, organic principles, and sustainability and spread the idea: “eating with consciousness means sustaining life.” We were lucky to have this experience with him.
This three-day stop in Mazara was varied, educational, and just plain fun! Our group seems to be melding together pretty well, and at this point, we are halfway through our base trip. Everyone seems healthy and happy….although probably a little heavier than when we started the trip!
