In Sicily’s southeastern area, Siracusa is an attractive old town mostly based on the small island of Ortigia. Known as the birthplace of the famed mathematician Archimedes, Syracuse was one of the most powerful ports of the ancient Mediterranean world.
Now more than 2,700 years old, the city boasts a rich history—evident in the Greek, Roman, and Baroque architecture that has helped earn the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Cicero declared Ortigia “the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all.”
A Local Guide, Elisa Ottaviano, took us on a 2-hour discovery walk of Ortigia (the historical center of Syracuse) to help us understand the city’s significance and history. As with many of these ancient towns, we enjoyed cascading baskets of flowers, iron balconies, charmingly winding streets, beautiful architecture, and stunning sea views.
Cathedral of Siracusa
The Cathedral of Siracusa is one of the most beautiful churches in Italy. It was actually built around the ancient Temple of Athena. We could see the Greek temple’s ancient Doric column in today’s cathedral’s wall.
The Piazza del Duomo is the pedestrian square in front of the Cathedral that serves as the heart of Ortigia….beautiful baroque architecture built on top of what was once the ancient acropolis.
Porta Urbica
Porta Urbica is the remains of an ancient gate. It was built by Dionysius the Great in the 5th century BC and was part of the city’s defensive walls. It is an important archaeological site in Syracuse and has been built to withstand attack. The gate was used for centuries but eventually abandoned in the Middle Ages. Rediscovered in the 1970s, and it has been undergoing excavation since.
Another tragic love story……
The legend of Alpheus and Arethusa is a popular one in Syracuse. Alpheus was a river god who fell in love with the nymph Arethusa. Arethusa did not return his love; she fled from him; he pursued her and eventually caught up to her here on the island of Ortigia.
Arethusa prayed to the Greek Goddess Artemis (Diana) for help, and Artemis transformed her into a fountain. Alpheus was so distraught that he turned into a river and flowed underground until he reached the fountain of Arethusa. And that is what we see in front of us…..the Fountain of Arethusa….a natural fountain flowing from a river under the sea! United, but forced to remain apart! This ancient spring still has fresh water bubbling up from it, as it has since ancient times when it served as the main water supply for the city.
Another unique feature of this fountain is that it is one of only two places in Europe where papyrus grows.
Nearby is the Fountain of Diana (Artemis), decorated with statues of Diana (goddess of the hunt) and Arethusa. The fountain also features four Tritons, sea creatures often depicted as half-human and half-fish.
The Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943 during World War II caused Syracuse some damage that was swiftly repaired during postwar prosperity. The city is now a center for processing local agricultural produce, including excellent wines. Moscato is native to this part of Sicily.
Temple of Apollo
The Temple of Apollo was dedicated to the Greek God Apollo, the god of music, poetry, prophecy, and healing. Built-in the 7th century BCE, it was a significant religious and cultural center in ancient Syracusa. Over the centuries, it has suffered significant damage during earthquakes and invasions. Today, only a few columns and fragments remain standing.
More sights around town!
We could not get by without a little shopping…today it was the hats that Judy, Jacki, and I could not resist!!
So many impressive church facades, elegant piazzas, and crystalline sea views…but the outdoor trattorie were calling us next! So we got off our feet and enjoyed local cuisines in a little alleyway… lasagna, pizza, caprice salad, and calamari.
We saw these Moorish heads all over Sicily but did not come home with any! They symbolize Sicily and are recognized worldwide, telling a story of passion, betrayal, jealousy, and revenge.
The legend says that during the time of the Moor domination in Sicily, a beautiful girl lived in the Arab quarter of Palermo), and loved to take care of plants on her balcony. One day she was noticed by a Moor who fell in love with her. The man told her his feelings and the two were overwhelmed by desire. When the girl discovered that her lover would soon travel back to the East, where a wife and children were waiting for him, the ‘green-eyed monster’ possessed her.
Mad with jealousy and feeling humiliated by the betrayal, the girl killed the Moor while he was asleep. In a fit of incredible violence, she cut off his head and used it as a vase to plant a basil bud. The girl watered the plant with tears, and the basil grew luxuriantly as time passed. The heady scent of the King’s plant (from the Greek Basilikos) caused the envy of the girl’s neighbors, who immediately ordered ceramic vases with the same features as the Moor’s Head. That’s how the beautiful girl started a tradition still in use today!