Travel Buddies: Pete & Joan

Living the Dream, One Trip at a Time

Trakai

Trakai

We journeyed outside Vilnius to Trakai, the de facto medieval capital of Lithuania. The Duke, Vytautas the Great, preferred the natural landscape by azure lakes and lush islands over Vilnius!

We were introduced here to a new ethnic/religious group: the Karaite (or Karaims) community. This is a small but unique group with roots going back more than 600 years. They are a Turkic-speaking people who practice Karaite Judaism, a form of Judaism that follows only the Hebrew Bible and rejects rabbinic traditions.

A commemorative plaque honoring Hachán Hadžy Seraja Chan Šapsal, featuring his portrait and inscriptions detailing his contributions to the Karaite community and culture.
A memorial plaque to Seraya Shapshal, the spiritual leader (Gahan) of the Karaites

Their history in Lithuania began in the late 14th century, when Grand Duke Vytautas the Great brought about 380 Karaite families from Crimea to Trakai after a military campaign. They were valued for their military skills and were settled near Trakai Castle to serve as guards, translators, merchants, and mediators.

Their distinctive houses are easily recognized by their three windows facing the street—one for God, one for Vytautas, and one for the family.

A yellow wooden house with white windows surrounded by greenery and flowers, located on a street in Trakai, Lithuania.
A street view in Trakai featuring traditional wooden houses, including a brown one with the sign 'Karaimų 18' and a pink house nearby, along with some flowers in the foreground.

The Karaim language, a branch of the Turkic family, is critically endangered, with only a handful of speakers left, but revival efforts are underway through camps, publications, and educational programs.

A view of a yellow wooden building, likely a kenesa, surrounded by a well-maintained garden and other traditional-style homes in Trakai, Lithuania.
Their places of worship are called kenesa.  These are wooden structures in Baroque Revival style. 

Karaites are known for their cuisine, especially kibinai—flaky pastries filled with meat and onions—which have become a beloved national dish in Lithuania. Under the direction of this gentleman, we each had an opportunity to make our own kibinai today! 

Three participants wearing colorful aprons and hairnets are smiling and holding rolling pins in a kitchen setting, preparing to make traditional kibinai pastries.
Here we are with our new friend Nancy…she truly amazes us at 90 years old!!! She is my new inspiration for longevity!
Participants preparing kibinai, traditional Karaite meat pastries, at a cooking demonstration, wearing colorful aprons.
Kibinai is a baked pastry filled with a hearty mixture of diced beef & vegetables, all sealed in a thick, crimped dough. It is folded into a half-moon shape with a distinctive crimp along one edge. We are about ready to do the folding!
A group of people in traditional attire and aprons, posing with utensils and wooden boards, inside a decorated community space.
Mission accomplished!! Now we have our salad and soup while the kibinai are baking for 20 minutes.
A plate of finely shredded beet salad garnished with parsley and lettuce, accompanied by a shot glass and a small piece of butter on a colorful patterned tablecloth.
The cabbage/carrot/beet salad is served with some Žalios Devynerios (a bitter herbal liqueur).
A plate featuring a traditional kibinai pastry, a flaky meat-filled pastry, alongside a bowl of green soup garnished with herbs, placed on a colorful patterned tablecloth.
The kibinai would be pretty much equivalent to the Cornish Miner pasties we bought in Madison.

Today, the Karaite population in Lithuania is very small, numbering only around 200 people. Despite their size, the community has remained resilient, preserving its faith, language, and traditions. In 2022, Lithuania even declared a Year of the Karaites, honoring their contributions to the country’s history and identity.

A historical plaque detailing the Karaite community's history and culture in Trakai, Lithuania, discussing their settlement, religion, and unique architecture.

Trakai Island Castle

Aerial view of Trakai Island Castle surrounded by blue water and green islands, showcasing the red brick architecture and scenic landscape.

The Trakai Island Castle is one of the most beautiful and iconic sights in Lithuania.  Built in the 14th century, the castle is strategically positioned on an island in Lake Galvė and was one of the main residences of the Lithuanian Grand Dukes, who lived there until the Grand Duke’s death in 1430.  This was a political and diplomatic hub where emissaries and foreign guests were received.

A view of Trakai Island Castle in Lithuania with red brick towers and a wooden bridge leading to the entrance, under a cloudy sky.
The castle is built of red brick in the Gothic style, with thick defensive walls, round corner towers, and a massive gatehouse. A wooden bridge connects the island to the mainland. Inside the walls is a large courtyard that once hosted ceremonies, markets, and gatherings.

After wars with the Teutonic Knights and Muscovite forces, Trakai Castle fell into decline. By the 17th century, it was in ruins, but a major restoration project in the 20th century rebuilt the castle based on historical records and archaeological evidence. Today, it is the only island castle in Eastern Europe that has been fully restored to its original form.

We did not have time for the castle tour (medieval weapons, armor, coins, documents, and artifacts), but the castle houses exhibits on medieval Lithuania, Grand Duchy heritage, and the unique story of the Karaites, who were brought here by Vytautas. This is a place where Lithuanian history, legend, and stunning scenery come together.

Instead, we took a short boat ride on Lake Galve to get a better view of Trakai Castle, a fairy-tale fortress. Unfortunately, the weather was not cooperating so our pictures are pretty gray…. this pic from the web shows our route!

Aerial view of Trakai Castle surrounded by lakes and greenery, with a dotted line indicating a path or route.

Seeing the castle from the water gives a sense of why it was built there… medieval soldiers guarding the bridge and lake, the water itself serving as a natural moat, and towers/walls that would be harder to capture from land.

View of Trakai Castle from Lake Galve, featuring a red brick structure surrounded by trees and water under a cloudy sky.
A view of Trakai Castle, a red brick fortress built on an island, surrounded by Lake Galve and lush greenery, with sailboats nearby.

This was an interesting visit offering more than just a castle—it was history, culture, and natural beauty… all in one experience. We leave with a stronger appreciation of Lithuania’s diverse heritage.

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